Jaipur Birding: Summer birding in the hills of Mount Abu

Mt. Abu - early June 2013.

The drive up to Abu from Udaipur is a smooth one on a relatively new expressway. As we approach Abu we pass a few tribal Garasiya and Bhil villages. The inhabitants of these villages were once pure hunter-gatherers, living off the forests. And so it is no surprise that several scruffy children are holding out bags of fruit for sale on the sides of the road. When we stop at a toll-booth, Namrata buys a handful of the 'berries', and only then do we realise that the fruit is the khajur. Obviously plucked from the many Phoenix sylvestris trees along the highway. What is sweeter still is to see the obvious delight on the 10 year-old seller's face for getting double the money he had asked for!

When we commence the final steep climb from the plains of Rajasthan up to Mt. Abu, we are glad it is a sunday. There is a steady stream of cars, mainly with Gujarat number plates, exiting downhill. These are the weekend visitors that throng this hill station in the summer.

We are looking forward to the twin attractions of being hosted at Altus, and of exploring the forest in the wildlife sanctuary.

It is a great relief to be able to open the car windows as we finally emerge onto the high plateau. The plains were scorching hot at over 40 degrees C, but here it is appreciably cooler.

Altus - entrance

Even before the family have a chance to explore the lovely property and the extensive terraced gardens, I immediately find one of my top birds for the trip. Right here at Altus!

Eurasian Blackbird - Turdus merula

The Blackbird is a summer visitor to Abu. This individual has perhaps already constructed a nest in one of the dense trees dotting the grounds, and we are treated to its melodious song each morning that we are here.

Other interesting birds on the property are the jaunty Black-lored Tits, the more-heard-than-seen Brown-headed Barbet and Coppersmith, and Large-billed Crows in a running feud with a pair of resident Shikras.

In the evening the task is to climb a nearby hill in order to qualify for the picnic. The family is suitably warned that sloth bears and leopards are sometimes seen on the hill - but there is no danger to us being in a large group. These animals are largely nocturnal in any case.

We encounter several specimens of another special bird of Abu.

Red-whiskered Bulbul - Pycnonotus jocosus

This is an isolated population of this species found only in Abu. The next nearest distribution is from parts of central India and north India, hundreds of kms away.

I am on the lookout for the Eurasian Turtle Dove, but have to be satisfied with the other common doves including the Spotted Dove.

Spotted Dove

Steep ravines cut through the rocky hillsides and these are choked with karaunda and lantana. Abhiviraj is the only one who spots a pair of Red Spurfowl, but they scuttle away quickly.

What we all do get a good look at, are a pair of the endangered Green Munia.

Finally!

I have come close to seeing them at other locations in Rajasthan a few times over the years, but these have been only just tantalizing glimpses, or hearing calls from inside of impenetrable cover.

They are exquisite. But also shy, and allow mere record photographs, before chirping off.

Later, as we enjoy our picnic at dusk, a pair of Crested Buntings hop about the hillside. A Grey Nightjar calls from a tree in the gloaming.

The lights of Altus welcome us back for the night.

front verandah

drawing room (foreground), and dining room (back)

This is a heritage property which has been restored beautifully, and is now functional as a luxury homestay.

Next morning I am up at dawn. Cup of tea in hand, standing on the terrace, enjoying the birdsong. Idly, I look up. A Peregrine Falcon is flying fast and true. Not very high. I will him to turn, but he continues due east, arrowing towards the golden glow on the horizon. Wow!

This morning our first port of call is Trevor's Tank. But when we arrive at the gates to the forest, they are locked. A signboard says visiting hours are 9 am to 5 pm. Darn.

We drive on, past the Delwara Temples, then skirting the edge of Chhoti Nakki. When I stop to photograph a posing Oriental Honey Buzzard, Shaurya spots wild boar on a hill clearing.

Wild Boar near Chhoti Nakki - three young ones not visible in photo

The road leads to Guru Shikhhar, notable for being the highest point in Rajasthan. En route, there is good birding. A juvenile Paradise Flycatcher is mobbing a crow in a copse of mango trees. We hear the dulcet calls of the White-spotted Fantail Flycatcher occasionally, and spot a couple when we stop to listen. Ascending higher, Silver Oaks proliferate, turning the area almost himalayan.

View of the Abu plateau from Guru Shikhhar

Returning, we check in again at Trevor's Tank. While buying the entry tickets, I have an ear out for the calls of Grey Junglefowl. Also the Indian Scimitar Babbler, particularly since we are surrounded by dense clumps of bamboo which the latter species likes. But no luck with either for now. The forest in the sanctuary is quite interesting. However, it is too late in the morning to see anything of note.

Shambhavi is the first to identify a purported rock in the lake as a crocodile!

Crocodile at Trevor's Tank

I am happy to add to my personal list of the dragonflies and damselflies of Rajasthan with a new species for me.

Black-winged Bambootail - male

Black-winged Bambootail - female

A soft knocking on a ficus tree alerts us to a pair of Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpeckers.

In the evening Mt. Abu is lashed by the season's first pre-monsoon showers. Our plans for an outing are somewhat dampened, but we enjoy the continuing drizzle as the day draws to a close.

A small butterfly has been driven indoors by the rain. I am delighted to find that it is an old friend, once common even in urban Rajasthan, but sadly not any more.

Common Three-ring