We are watching the sky fill with stars as twilight fades to night. There is no wind; the only sound is the subdued rustling of insects on the salt pan. Conversation is redundant in this stillness. Time appears to slow down, as the starlight illuminates the surface of this vast flatland to a shimmering silver sea all around us. A shooting star blazes across the constellation of Orion.
An hour earlier, at sunset, we had crunched softly through the salt-encrusted sand, weaving between tussocks of grass, and shallow nullahs, deep into the heart of this (now dry) saline marsh. Here the staff had assembled camp-chairs and served sun-downers.
Later at night , back in Chanoud Garh, we are welcomed by the rest of the family.
Jairaj, his wife Anchal, and his siblings Mahiraj and Swati, with the help of their parents, have been working for years to restore their family residence. Chanoud now has seven suites open for guests.
We have visited several times over the years, and have witnessed first-hand the various stages of restoration. The oldest parts of Chanoud date back three centuries, and it has been continuously inhabited by succeeding generations. However after the Independence of India, it had suffered years of neglect. In the oldest wings (which have Marwar / Jodhpur and Mewar / Udaipur styles of architecture), soot and dust coated the walls, many rooms had bat-droppings littering the floors. Wooden beams supporting the ceiling, weakened by decades of water seepage, threatened to collapse. Furniture and carpets lay unused. The original buttery 'araish' finish on walls was either crumbling away or had been covered over in slap-dash repair.
As we enjoy a late dinner in the open zenana courtyard it is clear that an almost miraculous transformation of the property has now reached fruition. We have been promised a full tour of the Garh in the morning.
Fortified with a hearty breakfast we begin our re-acquaintance with the property.
We begin with the Durbar Hall which has been restored and re-opened just days before.
Durbar Hall
This high-ceilinged room now houses paintings, photographs, trophies and other antiques. I have heard stories over the years of how many of these objects were literally salvaged from rubble.
Outside in the courtyard, Jairaj points out a stone carving panel depicting a scene of pig-sticking. This was obscured for decades by layers of limewash on the main facade ..
In many cases the original has been deliberately left untouched. Anchal gestures to the patina on this door, formed by years of having the natural elements work their unrelenting magic on a painted wooden surface. ...
Swati is a trained designer, and her creative imprints are everywhere - from the refreshingly liberal use of bold colours on walls, to the fabric and linen in the rooms.
Later in the morning Mahiraj is taking a couple of the hotel guests on a tour of the village, and I decide to join them as I have not seen the family chhatris (cenotaphs) and the baoris (wells). As we emerge from the passage to the front entrance, we can see an old woman at the fortified main gate. She has come from the village, and is pouring water from an earthen pitcher over the 'kada' (iron knocker), and is carefully collecting it in another vessel held below. I am as puzzled as are the foreigners with us. Later Mahiraj explains that the villagers believe the kada has curative powers. Possibly her sick grandchild would be made to drink this water.
Village life is similar to other rural areas in Rajasthan, and all the little shops filled with jootis, bangles, fabric and such-like are a great delight for the tourists with us.
As they dawdle, I press on to the Chhatris. I have been told earlier of one in particular, that of a much-beloved ancestor and his three ranis. Indeed some villagers have just emerged from it after lighting incense sticks. My grasp of the vernacular is just about adequate for me to understand their conversation. They have asked for his blessings in a new venture. This veneration and belief has inspired the present Chanoud family to undertake a modern hospital project and other development and welfare initiatives.
Nearby are temples, small vegetable patches, and examples of the different types of baoris.
There is the ubiquitous circular, stone-lined shaft, from which water has to be hauled up by hand using a pulley. Another shallower well has steps cut into the sides allowing access to the surface of the water; and a section from which oxen can be used to draw water. A third well is a true step-well, much larger and rectangular in shape, with its neat geometry of steps leading down. This is adjacent to the village lake. As I stand quietly in the shade of an ancient tamarind, I spot a group of pelicans on a small rocky island in the lake.
On my way back to the Fort, I pass some village elders who have started gathering for their daily ritual of sharing a smoke and passing the day. I suspect the 'chillum' contains not just tobacco but possibly some other, more stimulating substance too!
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Indeed, many of the young men from the village now work in towns and cities, so the majority of the resident population consists of elders, children and ladies. This is a harsh, unforgiving land. A benevolent monsoon will allow a single crop to be cultivated in a year - mainly wheat or pulses. At this time of the year they are also harvesting mustard stalks, the yellow flowers having long dried in the hot March sun.
At lunch, which is served in one of the dining rooms, we are joined by several visiting family elders.
This older generation shares tales of life here when they were children. An aunt remembers her Irish governess and life in 'purdah'. Jairaj tells her that they have recently found a secret passage connecting the residence of a former rajah to the room of his favourite rani in the zenana. Such instances of serendipity are now increasingly common in the restoration process. An abandoned trunk has yielded surprisingly well-preserved ancient tomes from the late 19th century. There are books on royal pastimes like pig-sticking. Superb calligraphy embellishes tales of Chanoud's history in another large book ...
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Several historical references record a heroic, yet tragic tale of the Mertia Rathores (a clan of Rajputs), of which Chanoud is an integral and important part. When the Marathas invaded these parts of Rajputana, they cleverly exploited the divisions and distrust within the ranks of feuding Rajputs. A crucial battle was lost when the defending army was surprised at daybreak by the French General De Boigne's cannons, and they were decimated as they awoke. News of this carnage reached the Rajput cavalry camped nearby. These doughty warriors from Chanoud and other sub-clans chose not to withdraw in the face of this huge army. All four thousand of them, fortified by doses of opium, and with cries of famous victories before, charged at the eighty well-protected and entrenched cannons and the army behind. Most were cut to pieces by grapeshot. Yet several of them burst through the protecting lines and hurtled forward, sending the 'Marathas flying in all directions'. However, the cannons were reversed and quickly primed, and the returning warriors were shot down almost to the last rider. Songs are still sung in these parts of such tales of valour.
To my regret, I failed to take photographs of any of the several elaborate and truly memorable meals during our stay. But an abiding memory remains of the ' hara chana ka halva' at dinner on our last night. Earlier, driving past agricultural fields, an exuberant farmer had thrust some freshly uprooted stalks of hara chana in our hands. This was the main ingredient in the halva .
Here are some photographs of Chanoud that we took during our visit ...
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email - sahdevsingh2004@yahoo.co.in
An hour earlier, at sunset, we had crunched softly through the salt-encrusted sand, weaving between tussocks of grass, and shallow nullahs, deep into the heart of this (now dry) saline marsh. Here the staff had assembled camp-chairs and served sun-downers.
salt-pan at sunset ...
Later at night , back in Chanoud Garh, we are welcomed by the rest of the family.
Jairaj, his wife Anchal, and his siblings Mahiraj and Swati, with the help of their parents, have been working for years to restore their family residence. Chanoud now has seven suites open for guests.
Night view of the mardana (gents) courtyard...
Entrance to the zenana (ladies) wing ... now the private residence of the family
We have visited several times over the years, and have witnessed first-hand the various stages of restoration. The oldest parts of Chanoud date back three centuries, and it has been continuously inhabited by succeeding generations. However after the Independence of India, it had suffered years of neglect. In the oldest wings (which have Marwar / Jodhpur and Mewar / Udaipur styles of architecture), soot and dust coated the walls, many rooms had bat-droppings littering the floors. Wooden beams supporting the ceiling, weakened by decades of water seepage, threatened to collapse. Furniture and carpets lay unused. The original buttery 'araish' finish on walls was either crumbling away or had been covered over in slap-dash repair.
As we enjoy a late dinner in the open zenana courtyard it is clear that an almost miraculous transformation of the property has now reached fruition. We have been promised a full tour of the Garh in the morning.
At dawn, with the village awakening ..
Fortified with a hearty breakfast we begin our re-acquaintance with the property.
We begin with the Durbar Hall which has been restored and re-opened just days before.
Durbar Hall
This high-ceilinged room now houses paintings, photographs, trophies and other antiques. I have heard stories over the years of how many of these objects were literally salvaged from rubble.
Outside in the courtyard, Jairaj points out a stone carving panel depicting a scene of pig-sticking. This was obscured for decades by layers of limewash on the main facade ..
In many cases the original has been deliberately left untouched. Anchal gestures to the patina on this door, formed by years of having the natural elements work their unrelenting magic on a painted wooden surface. ...
Here is a typical suite with its own private jharokhas (balconies). 
Later in the morning Mahiraj is taking a couple of the hotel guests on a tour of the village, and I decide to join them as I have not seen the family chhatris (cenotaphs) and the baoris (wells). As we emerge from the passage to the front entrance, we can see an old woman at the fortified main gate. She has come from the village, and is pouring water from an earthen pitcher over the 'kada' (iron knocker), and is carefully collecting it in another vessel held below. I am as puzzled as are the foreigners with us. Later Mahiraj explains that the villagers believe the kada has curative powers. Possibly her sick grandchild would be made to drink this water.
'kada' on the main gate
Village life is similar to other rural areas in Rajasthan, and all the little shops filled with jootis, bangles, fabric and such-like are a great delight for the tourists with us.
A house in the village
As they dawdle, I press on to the Chhatris. I have been told earlier of one in particular, that of a much-beloved ancestor and his three ranis. Indeed some villagers have just emerged from it after lighting incense sticks. My grasp of the vernacular is just about adequate for me to understand their conversation. They have asked for his blessings in a new venture. This veneration and belief has inspired the present Chanoud family to undertake a modern hospital project and other development and welfare initiatives.
Chhatri
There is the ubiquitous circular, stone-lined shaft, from which water has to be hauled up by hand using a pulley. Another shallower well has steps cut into the sides allowing access to the surface of the water; and a section from which oxen can be used to draw water. A third well is a true step-well, much larger and rectangular in shape, with its neat geometry of steps leading down. This is adjacent to the village lake. As I stand quietly in the shade of an ancient tamarind, I spot a group of pelicans on a small rocky island in the lake.
Great White Pelicans
On my way back to the Fort, I pass some village elders who have started gathering for their daily ritual of sharing a smoke and passing the day. I suspect the 'chillum' contains not just tobacco but possibly some other, more stimulating substance too!
Village elders socialising ...
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Indeed, many of the young men from the village now work in towns and cities, so the majority of the resident population consists of elders, children and ladies. This is a harsh, unforgiving land. A benevolent monsoon will allow a single crop to be cultivated in a year - mainly wheat or pulses. At this time of the year they are also harvesting mustard stalks, the yellow flowers having long dried in the hot March sun.
At lunch, which is served in one of the dining rooms, we are joined by several visiting family elders.
The painted walls of the dining room were covered over for years with whitewash 
This older generation shares tales of life here when they were children. An aunt remembers her Irish governess and life in 'purdah'. Jairaj tells her that they have recently found a secret passage connecting the residence of a former rajah to the room of his favourite rani in the zenana. Such instances of serendipity are now increasingly common in the restoration process. An abandoned trunk has yielded surprisingly well-preserved ancient tomes from the late 19th century. There are books on royal pastimes like pig-sticking. Superb calligraphy embellishes tales of Chanoud's history in another large book ...
Hand-written historical tales
.jpg)
Several historical references record a heroic, yet tragic tale of the Mertia Rathores (a clan of Rajputs), of which Chanoud is an integral and important part. When the Marathas invaded these parts of Rajputana, they cleverly exploited the divisions and distrust within the ranks of feuding Rajputs. A crucial battle was lost when the defending army was surprised at daybreak by the French General De Boigne's cannons, and they were decimated as they awoke. News of this carnage reached the Rajput cavalry camped nearby. These doughty warriors from Chanoud and other sub-clans chose not to withdraw in the face of this huge army. All four thousand of them, fortified by doses of opium, and with cries of famous victories before, charged at the eighty well-protected and entrenched cannons and the army behind. Most were cut to pieces by grapeshot. Yet several of them burst through the protecting lines and hurtled forward, sending the 'Marathas flying in all directions'. However, the cannons were reversed and quickly primed, and the returning warriors were shot down almost to the last rider. Songs are still sung in these parts of such tales of valour.
Here are some photographs of Chanoud that we took during our visit ...
Rear entrance to the Garh ...
An ancient, hand operated room-cooler ...
The iconic, drought-resistant and long-lived tree of this area - Salvadora or Peelu...
Arches and jalis ...
Baghera looking out for his lately deceased companion ... in the 'noor' of the setting sun...
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The front courtyard by day...
Arches were added to buttress the sagging stone beams supporting the ceiling...
The front facade of the Garh...
The zenana courtyard ...
Bathroom...
Wall painting in the private temple of a part-human, part-animal figure ...
Newer wing of the Garh - with Colonial influences...
resident Barn Owl ...
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Another Suite...
Approach to the salt pan - only 4 WD vehicles can make it here when it is dry!
The main entrance to the Garh ...
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Child in the village...
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Stone-pillared corridor ...
Dining Room ...
Dawn ...
Good one, Sahdev.
ReplyDeleteSo evocative! Padhaaro mhaar desh ho!
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