Dawn over the River Kosi ---
We had driven up the day before, from Jaipur to Corbett National Park. From the hot and dusty plains of Rajasthan to the cooler green forests at the base of the Himalayas. Our resort is on the river Kosi, surrounded by fruiting mango and litchi orchards. Independent cottages overlook the river. The cliffs and the forest in the background add to the charm.
A restful night is enlivened by the calls of the Grey Nightjar and the Mountain Scops Owl. Spotted Owlets perch on the fence posts of the property as we walk across for dinner.
I am up early. Before 5 am I spend several minutes just outside our cottage. Amidst much birdsong I observe several Golden Orioles, Red-whiskered and Himalayan Bulbuls, Oriental White-eyes,and a pair of Scaly-breasted Munias. Vocal parakeets are out in good numbers, most of them Plum-headed Parakeets. An Indian Cuckoo calls in the distance - 'ka-phal-pa-ko'. And indeed the kaphal fruit is ripe at this time.
But the most interesting show is being played out in the mango orchard. At least 6 male Paradise Flycatchers (all adults) are vying for the attentions of a solitary female. They chase each other low over the grass, dodging through the trees. Two males rise upwards pirouetting in synchronisation from a perch, their long white tail streamers seemingly intertwined. Even when I return after several hours the birds are still around. The rest of our party also get good views of these ethereal creatures.
As I walk down to the river two pairs of River Lapwings rise from their nests calling in alarm, as this family of birds is wont to do. Birders have seen Ibisbill here, and that would be a top bird, so I keep a sharp eye out for it.
On a boulder by the flowing water is a Crested Kingfisher - our largest Kingfisher.
By far the best bird here for me is a lifer. A strange flight shape has just riffled down to the edge of the river. Quite clearly it is a heron when I get it in focus in the bins. But the way it came down it looked almost duck-like in flight. Once it is on the ground I am not allowed close approach. The bird is quite shy using what little cover is provided by boulders to move along the sandy bank.
When I walk back to the resort the exposed sand bank has several Martins nesting in holes. These appear to be Plain Martins. Monsoon floods have cut away the river bank - and also washed away part of the swimming pool last year.
We have not been able to book a morning safari today - they have all been sold out. But Somi has explored the forest across the river on an earlier trip, so that is where we decide to go after breakfast. Secretly I am delighted because I know this will allow me opportunities to get out of the car and walk. I really don't believe birding is much good from a vehicle. On game drives in the sanctuary, you are not allowed to get down.
The children have all been given different animal and bird target lists by Happy and this is their first opportunity to score. And score they do. Unlike me ( the old fogey) they do not carry a notebook. The lists are on cellphones and instant feedback is provided via technology! To each his own, I guess.
We pass through some interesting habitat, mainly good Sal forest, cut through by seasonal floodstreams running down to the Kosi.
We do not see many animals except for wild boar and elephants but the birding is excellent. The very first interesting bird is a Rufous Woodpecker. While I am trying to get a better look, another woodpecker flies up from the ground to a tree nearby. A flameback with a red rump and dark head. Only later after consulting the guidebooks can I determine that this was a female Himalayan Flameback. And not the female Greater Flameback as I had first thought.
A little deeper in the forest there is a perched Crested Serpent Eagle. And I get 'the look' when I approach closer for a better photograph.
When we stop next to a patch of dense lantana bushes where we can hear Red Junglefowl calling, Shaurya points out a skulker in the dense undergrowth. Quite clearly a babbler, medium sized, with prominent dark streaks on the breast. Again later analysis of the notes confirms this as the Puff-throated Babbler. A lifer.
This area is quite interesting with tall grasses on the other side of the track with tall tree-laden cliffs rising abruptly. A solitary Chestnut-headed Bee Eater has made this its patch and makes busy sallies after insects. It is amazing how a relatively 'quiet' forest comes to life when you alight from the vehicle and start walking around. We have seen many Black Drongos but suddenly a pair of drongos with curiously shaped tails command attention. These are Spangled Drongos. The light is excellent and their shiny metallic blue-back plumage and even the faint hair-crest is visible. Superb.
Just a short distance away a Large-billed Crow is cawing next to a sandy cave in the cliff face. And there is an owl inside the cave - possibly a juvenile because it is much smaller than the parent at the entrance of another cave a few feet away. Quite clearly a fish owl for its large size and shape of ears.
As the track winds higher up the hillside the character of the forest changes with fewer broad-leaved trees now, and the first of the conifers appearing. When we stop at a vantage point with fine views down to the valleys far below, we come upon the best birds of the morning for me.
These are the first of the nuthatches (and we will have more views in the hills over the next few days). They hurtle downhill and back up again, alighting on favored trees and scuttling upwards and around the trunks and thicker branches. We are able to determine the differences between two species - the White-tailed Nuthatch and the Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch. I could have sworn we also saw the Velvet-fronted Nuthatch close by, but my notes fail me and we have no photos, so must cross out the last.
On the way back to the resort I make a big mistake in the ID of a raptor. In my defence, I would say that the group was anxious to move on to Ranikhet later that morning so time was short. I make the sighting, stop the vehicle and brush it off as a (seemingly common) Oriental Honey Buzzard. The size, dark brown upperparts on perch, dark greyish head etc made me jump the gun. Fortunately Abhiviraj has taken some record photos and when I review these later it is clear that this was a Changeable Hawk Eagle. A dark morph of the Limnaeetus sub-species. These Hawk-Eagles appear almost not to have a crest. And as the name suggests the plumage is extremely 'changeable', quite dark overall in this case. Lesson learned.
As we cross the river at the barrage, on an island is a forlorn, solitary Ruddy Shelduck. Over-wintering by choice, or by neccessity because it is full of shotgun pellets ? As Mark Knopffler sang " .. looking so bereaved and so bereft.."
When we get back to the resort, several young schoolchildren have just returned from safari. Each group has fanciful tales to tell each other of the tigers they saw. The most dramatic is one being recounted by a born raconteur. We overhear him saying "... and then we saw the tiger jumping at the peacock and catching it in midair" ! Fertile imaginations all.
We have an evening safari booked in the main sanctuary on our way back, so the Corbett story continues ...
We had driven up the day before, from Jaipur to Corbett National Park. From the hot and dusty plains of Rajasthan to the cooler green forests at the base of the Himalayas. Our resort is on the river Kosi, surrounded by fruiting mango and litchi orchards. Independent cottages overlook the river. The cliffs and the forest in the background add to the charm.
A restful night is enlivened by the calls of the Grey Nightjar and the Mountain Scops Owl. Spotted Owlets perch on the fence posts of the property as we walk across for dinner.
I am up early. Before 5 am I spend several minutes just outside our cottage. Amidst much birdsong I observe several Golden Orioles, Red-whiskered and Himalayan Bulbuls, Oriental White-eyes,and a pair of Scaly-breasted Munias. Vocal parakeets are out in good numbers, most of them Plum-headed Parakeets. An Indian Cuckoo calls in the distance - 'ka-phal-pa-ko'. And indeed the kaphal fruit is ripe at this time.
But the most interesting show is being played out in the mango orchard. At least 6 male Paradise Flycatchers (all adults) are vying for the attentions of a solitary female. They chase each other low over the grass, dodging through the trees. Two males rise upwards pirouetting in synchronisation from a perch, their long white tail streamers seemingly intertwined. Even when I return after several hours the birds are still around. The rest of our party also get good views of these ethereal creatures.
As I walk down to the river two pairs of River Lapwings rise from their nests calling in alarm, as this family of birds is wont to do. Birders have seen Ibisbill here, and that would be a top bird, so I keep a sharp eye out for it.
On a boulder by the flowing water is a Crested Kingfisher - our largest Kingfisher.
Crested Kingfisher
By far the best bird here for me is a lifer. A strange flight shape has just riffled down to the edge of the river. Quite clearly it is a heron when I get it in focus in the bins. But the way it came down it looked almost duck-like in flight. Once it is on the ground I am not allowed close approach. The bird is quite shy using what little cover is provided by boulders to move along the sandy bank.
Little Heron
When I walk back to the resort the exposed sand bank has several Martins nesting in holes. These appear to be Plain Martins. Monsoon floods have cut away the river bank - and also washed away part of the swimming pool last year.
We have not been able to book a morning safari today - they have all been sold out. But Somi has explored the forest across the river on an earlier trip, so that is where we decide to go after breakfast. Secretly I am delighted because I know this will allow me opportunities to get out of the car and walk. I really don't believe birding is much good from a vehicle. On game drives in the sanctuary, you are not allowed to get down.
The children have all been given different animal and bird target lists by Happy and this is their first opportunity to score. And score they do. Unlike me ( the old fogey) they do not carry a notebook. The lists are on cellphones and instant feedback is provided via technology! To each his own, I guess.
We pass through some interesting habitat, mainly good Sal forest, cut through by seasonal floodstreams running down to the Kosi.
A view from a high point down to the river
We do not see many animals except for wild boar and elephants but the birding is excellent. The very first interesting bird is a Rufous Woodpecker. While I am trying to get a better look, another woodpecker flies up from the ground to a tree nearby. A flameback with a red rump and dark head. Only later after consulting the guidebooks can I determine that this was a female Himalayan Flameback. And not the female Greater Flameback as I had first thought.
A little deeper in the forest there is a perched Crested Serpent Eagle. And I get 'the look' when I approach closer for a better photograph.
Crested Serpent Eagle
When we stop next to a patch of dense lantana bushes where we can hear Red Junglefowl calling, Shaurya points out a skulker in the dense undergrowth. Quite clearly a babbler, medium sized, with prominent dark streaks on the breast. Again later analysis of the notes confirms this as the Puff-throated Babbler. A lifer.This area is quite interesting with tall grasses on the other side of the track with tall tree-laden cliffs rising abruptly. A solitary Chestnut-headed Bee Eater has made this its patch and makes busy sallies after insects. It is amazing how a relatively 'quiet' forest comes to life when you alight from the vehicle and start walking around. We have seen many Black Drongos but suddenly a pair of drongos with curiously shaped tails command attention. These are Spangled Drongos. The light is excellent and their shiny metallic blue-back plumage and even the faint hair-crest is visible. Superb.
Just a short distance away a Large-billed Crow is cawing next to a sandy cave in the cliff face. And there is an owl inside the cave - possibly a juvenile because it is much smaller than the parent at the entrance of another cave a few feet away. Quite clearly a fish owl for its large size and shape of ears.
Brown Fish Owl
As the track winds higher up the hillside the character of the forest changes with fewer broad-leaved trees now, and the first of the conifers appearing. When we stop at a vantage point with fine views down to the valleys far below, we come upon the best birds of the morning for me.
These are the first of the nuthatches (and we will have more views in the hills over the next few days). They hurtle downhill and back up again, alighting on favored trees and scuttling upwards and around the trunks and thicker branches. We are able to determine the differences between two species - the White-tailed Nuthatch and the Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch. I could have sworn we also saw the Velvet-fronted Nuthatch close by, but my notes fail me and we have no photos, so must cross out the last.
Nuthatch silhouette
On the way back to the resort I make a big mistake in the ID of a raptor. In my defence, I would say that the group was anxious to move on to Ranikhet later that morning so time was short. I make the sighting, stop the vehicle and brush it off as a (seemingly common) Oriental Honey Buzzard. The size, dark brown upperparts on perch, dark greyish head etc made me jump the gun. Fortunately Abhiviraj has taken some record photos and when I review these later it is clear that this was a Changeable Hawk Eagle. A dark morph of the Limnaeetus sub-species. These Hawk-Eagles appear almost not to have a crest. And as the name suggests the plumage is extremely 'changeable', quite dark overall in this case. Lesson learned.
As we cross the river at the barrage, on an island is a forlorn, solitary Ruddy Shelduck. Over-wintering by choice, or by neccessity because it is full of shotgun pellets ? As Mark Knopffler sang " .. looking so bereaved and so bereft.."
Ruddy Shelduck
When we get back to the resort, several young schoolchildren have just returned from safari. Each group has fanciful tales to tell each other of the tigers they saw. The most dramatic is one being recounted by a born raconteur. We overhear him saying "... and then we saw the tiger jumping at the peacock and catching it in midair" ! Fertile imaginations all.
We have an evening safari booked in the main sanctuary on our way back, so the Corbett story continues ...
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