An orange glow briefly flares dead east, underlighting the soupy atmosphere on the horizon. Sunrise is still a while away. Thick fleecy clouds scud across the ever brightening sky. It is our last morning in Ranikhet and I am determined to observe the mighty snow peaks of the central himalayas before we leave. Every morning 5 am onwards whilst out birding I have cast a longing look north-eastwards over the rolling forested hills, but at this time of the year, the eternal snows are obscured by clouds and a haze that is impenetrable.
Today we may be in luck. As the light gets stronger it appears there are no clouds in the direction we are gazing. Last night a terrific electrical thunderstorm accompanied by hail and rain had lashed Ranikhet. There is every chance that the haze would be much reduced in the early hours of today.
And behold ! As if a veil is parted, the object of one's attention jumps into focus. To the left is the unmistakable massif of Trishul. Shiva's trident. The triple peaks rising obliquely away from the observer. As the eye moves eastwards, first a jagged jumble of high peaks, and then, somewhat isolated, the magnificent peak of Nanda Devi. Surrounded by its sister peaks like Nanda Kot, and guarded by deep gorges barring access to the intrepid mountaineer.
Trishul is revealed to me after many years. An abiding memory is that of seeing it from a short distance away from 16,000 ft on Roop Kund. As you get closer to the great mountains they tower above you, impossibly high pinnacles of rock and ice and snow.
Now we wait for the dawn to break and for the golden rays to march from one high peak to another. On the clearest of days after the monsoon from where we are standing the central himalyan peaks can be observed in an unbroken line for hundreds of kms.
But, as often happens in the hills, the weather changes instantly. The sun cannot break free of clouds low on the horizon, even though the snow peaks are visible for at least 45 minutes.
Our attention is now drawn to the chorus of bird calls around us. Every morning at 4:30 am I have woken to the pleasant song of the Blue Whistling Thrush. Soon joined by the clamour of its offspring in the nest just outside our bedroom window!
Here is our dutiful mother carrying juicy mouthfuls for the young ones in the nest.
Today we may be in luck. As the light gets stronger it appears there are no clouds in the direction we are gazing. Last night a terrific electrical thunderstorm accompanied by hail and rain had lashed Ranikhet. There is every chance that the haze would be much reduced in the early hours of today.
And behold ! As if a veil is parted, the object of one's attention jumps into focus. To the left is the unmistakable massif of Trishul. Shiva's trident. The triple peaks rising obliquely away from the observer. As the eye moves eastwards, first a jagged jumble of high peaks, and then, somewhat isolated, the magnificent peak of Nanda Devi. Surrounded by its sister peaks like Nanda Kot, and guarded by deep gorges barring access to the intrepid mountaineer.
Trishul is revealed to me after many years. An abiding memory is that of seeing it from a short distance away from 16,000 ft on Roop Kund. As you get closer to the great mountains they tower above you, impossibly high pinnacles of rock and ice and snow.
Now we wait for the dawn to break and for the golden rays to march from one high peak to another. On the clearest of days after the monsoon from where we are standing the central himalyan peaks can be observed in an unbroken line for hundreds of kms.
But, as often happens in the hills, the weather changes instantly. The sun cannot break free of clouds low on the horizon, even though the snow peaks are visible for at least 45 minutes.
Our attention is now drawn to the chorus of bird calls around us. Every morning at 4:30 am I have woken to the pleasant song of the Blue Whistling Thrush. Soon joined by the clamour of its offspring in the nest just outside our bedroom window!
Here is our dutiful mother carrying juicy mouthfuls for the young ones in the nest.
Blue Whistling Thrush
My usual beat in the mornings and evenings has been the lower track from just below the Meghdoot Hotel to the Rosemount and beyond on the road to Chaubattia. Many of these tracks pass by isolated British-era bungalows, but in fact there are stretches of superb forest all along, particularly dense closer to Chaubattia.
On our first evening after checking into our rooms at the Kumaon Villa and ordering dinner at the Hotel Meghdoot, we walk perhaps 500 mts and within 1 hour we are able to chalk up some good birds at dusk. One of the first a superb male Kaleej pheasant. There is much movement and sound around him but the dense cover hid his harem well. Then the first of many parties of the Streaked Laughingthrush. Typical babbler behaviour with the birds flicking through loose leaf litter searching for insects. And as the gloom increases, just by the side of the track a party of Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers. This is the only occasion we actually see them, though I heard the distinctive calls another evening. A pied woodpecker gives me some trouble, but next day it is confirmed as the Brown-fronted Woodpecker and is probably the most common. As we return past the few buildings there are several Barn Swallows nesting under the eaves. Some Martins I cannot ID. A solitary Ashy Drongo is hawking midges.
My appetite is whetted for a full birding session early next morning.
Surprisingly we hear no bird calls at night, a pattern which was to repeat itself in Ranikhet.
And so with a keen sense of anticipation I am out early. The first morning in the hills is always special. The sounds, smells and sights are new and fresh. All the senses are heightened and alert. Immediately, I can smell the fragrance of pine needles. The trees and shrubs are full of birds. Very quickly I realise that many of the species are already nesting. Most of us are familiar with the loud calls of the Great Barbet, but now they are pairing up and nesting and are exercising a much fuller vocabulary (which puzzles me at first). I am able to observe several different birds in neatly excavated holes on the trunks of (mainly) pine trees.
Great Barbet ----
Within minutes I am smack bang in the middle of one of Salim Ali's famed 'mixed hunting parties'. Even though I have spent many weeks poring through checklists, listening to bird call recordings etc, it is clear I will struggle today. I so envy the experts who can rattle off 20 different bird species in just such a situation. I cannot reach double figures. Even though we have already met one such party while driving up to Ranikhet from Corbett Park yesterday.
I quickly tick off the common species - Green-backed Tit, Black-throated Tit, Black-lored Tit, Great Tit, and these must be Spot-winged Tit obviously; there are at least three different warblers and I can ID only the Grey-hooded Warbler; and a pair of Bar-tailed Tree-Creepers; Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch; there are still more birds but in that first rush of also trying to get some photographs they have moved on. Never mind, I know that we have more chances over the next few days. You have to enjoy the moment, I remind myself.
I walk along slowly savouring the feel of the forest. There is not a soul about at this hour. I halt overlooking a deep ravine choked with shrubs and boulders and deep in shadow of tall trees overhead. A flash of white has caught my eye. And then through a gap perched on a twig just above the seeping rivulet a solitary Spotted Forktail. Fantastic. And we have been scouring the rivers and streams up from Corbett the past couple days looking in vain for the Forktails and Water Redstarts. This ravine is full of birds and from subsequent visits to this spot I have notes and some records pix of at least 3 species I cannot ID.
Further along my attention is arrested by a half-familiar call. And out pops a Verditer Flycatcher which poses obligingly.
Verditer Flycatcher ---
Close to the Rosemount I can hear a loud party of Red-billed Blue Magpies much before I see them. There are at least 6 individuals and 2 seem to be juveniles. What a wonderful sight observing these long-tailed birds chasing through trees and feeding on berries.
Red-billed Blue Magpie ----
Hunger forces me to turn back by 9 am. I encounter another mixed party which also has Rufous-naped Tit, White-spotted Fantail Flycatcher and what appeared to be Yellow-breasted Greenfinch. Many other birds typically seen appear to have moved to higher altitudes. I have come across several Grey-headed Woodpeckers this morning, and together with the Brown-fronted Woodpecker, these are the most common of the family.
Grey-headed Woodpecker ----
Brown-fronted Woodpecker ----
A quick breakfast of bun-omelette and rejuvenating hot coffee and I am back with the family for the day.
I am going to close this post here, but in the next few hope to give you a feel of summer birding in the forests and other locales of Ranikhet and Nainital. Also a report on two early morning walks along the Kosi River and an afternoon game drive in Corbett National Park.
I know its a bit of a pain to post comments (because you have to first register and stuff) but do email me any feedback at sahdevsingh2004@yahoo.co.in
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