Garhwal 4 - birding towards Har-ki-dun

Day 6: trek from Taluka towards Seema and return;

Day 7: exploring the left bank of Tons upstream of Taluka

Today would be a slightly longer hike.
We plan to walk at least half-way from Taluka towards Seema on the Har-ki-dun / Ruinsara tal trek route and return.
SS has described the early section of the track as passing through scrub, and HSS mentions that these 'transition areas' could throw up different bird species. Over the past few days we have enjoyed good birding, but all of us have commented that the bird density has been quite low, especially in dense forest. We have not found any large mixed hunting parties which are such an exciting part of himalayan birding.

Looking back towards Taluka FRH; 'transition areas' with mixed habitat on left-bank of Tons

The transition areas are where forest, bushy scrub, fruit trees and cultivation intersect.

We are only a short distance into our trek when a rosefinch, just off the track, ensconses itself in a dry stalky bush. As we come abreast, it freezes only a few feet from us. We get partially obscured views through the grassy stalks. It is a Pink-browed Rosefinch.

Soon we are in a glade with scattered fruit trees and terraced fields. A flock of bullfinches flits through the trees. Another wonderful, not commonly seen species - Brown Bullfinches.   

Brown Bullfinch

We decide to spend some time exploring this area and are rewarded with Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes skulking through the bushes. From a distance they appear quite plain, but once focused in the bins, the dark spotting on the breast and the yellow wings appear striking. A pair of Striated Laughingthrushes are primarily arboreal, their spiky crests and streaked plumage standing out in the foliage.

En-route Taluka - Seema

Brown Dipper (juvenile)

Brown Dippers are aplenty in the rivers and streams of this region. Many are juveniles - some already hunting for their food like their parents.

But not the one pictured above and its sibling. 

It is their parents that are doing all the work. 

Dippers are unusual in their feeding habits. Most of the prey is caught underwater in these glacial waters. 

The parent neatly dives to be fully submerged, then comes up yards downstream, floats down further, makes several more dives...and when something is finally caught, the juvenile streaks down to the appropriate rock and begs to be fed.

Yellow-throated Marten

We were able to observe martens on two occasions. Once, as pictured here, scrambling along on the opposite hill from us, across the river. Later, on being spied by shepherd dogs and given chase, it effortlessly foiled them by climbing a steep cliff.

Another time I ducked under a culvert to photograph dragonflies, and surprised a marten only yards from me. Presumably it was bathing since the coat was fully wet.

Interesting pattern on river boulder

Light drizzle most afternoons caused water to seep down onto the track

Past the village of Datmir and closer to Seema, the snows loom higher

Now we have to step aside to allow mules laden with rucksacks, tents and sleeping mats to pass. Then the first group of schoolchildren trekkers appear. On being asked how far they had gone, a chubby girl announces that she was one of the few who was able to make it up to Har-ki-dun. Another says that 'it was s-o-o-o cold'. The school party straggles past. One mule has a girl astride. I notice that many of the mules have far too large a load tied onto their backs. Some mule drivers are only carrying back empty plastic containers, chivvying their charges along. 

Grey Bushchat (male)

Grey Bushchat (female)

In this riverside scrub, dotted with thorny bushes sprouting yellow flowers, we come across several species in a matter of minutes, all within a few yards of each other. The highlight is a white-tailed rubythroat.

White-tailed Rubythroat

A pair of smallish babblers confuses me - but we later ID them as the White-browed Fulvetta. A solitary Striated Prinia stacks up as the only prinia we saw.

Long-tailed Minivet (male)

We find minivets usually in pairs. Females sport yellow in place of the male's red. 

Red-billed Blue Magpie

We were able to observe a magpie nest with three chicks. The magpie parents were able providers, and were their usual exuberant selves, unlike some other bird parents which appear to be rather harassed at their job.

Inverted ice-cone in the middle at back, partially obscured by clouds- Swargrohini (?)

Russet Sparrow

Himalayan Woodpecker

Streaked Laughingthrush

The locals

On the trekking route we do come across a few children importuning visitors for a 'toffee'. But this toddler, seen here with his grandmother, only smiled shyly at us. When he was given a (tiny) fistful of dry fruits his little cheeks got redder and his smile would have made the whole trip worthwhile even if we hadn't seen many birds.

To be fair, some of the menfolk of Taluka do actually work. This gent was often busy with something or the other in his hut just behind the FRH.

Well, that concludes the birding blogposts from our trip to Garhwal, but I'm going to add another report on the dragonflies and butterflies from here...

sahdevsingh2004@yahoo.co.in