Birding in Chhatra Sagar, Nimaj - Part 1

We are seated at an enormous hearth-style dining table which is laden with non-vegetarian delicacies. Having already enjoyed fish kebabs over drinks in the open air, now we are eagerly tucking into biryani; an assortment of mutton preparations including 'lal maas'; succulent legs of chicken tandoori; and various local dishes from Marwar that the Nimaj kitchen is justly famous for. All of this rich fare is wonderfully counterbalanced by the 'khata' and the dry rotis. And just when you try and persuade your hosts that you possibly cannot eat any more, out comes the piece-de-resistance - a wickedly sweet and flavorful 'upside-down pineapple cake'. One of many memorable desserts that we would enjoy over the next two days.

We are at Chhatra Sagar, Nimaj at the invitation of Nandi and Harsh. Our birding antennae are tingling with news of all the rarities that have been seen here lately.

Next morning we are all up well before dawn. Summer is already well entrenched in the cities by mid-March, but here the breeze is still cool as it wafts in across the lake, bringing with it the calls of the distant birds.

Chhatra Sagar at dawn...

My top target bird for this trip would have to be the Northern Goshawk - Accipiter gentilis. Pronounced 'gos-hawk', as Somendra points out; and a favourite of falconers. This is a rare winter migrant to parts of Rajasthan. But Nandi has been seeing it here lately, and leads us quietly to a grove of trees overlooking a large open scrub. Despite our careful approach, a large 'hawk' is flushed from its (typical) ambush perch. The strong barring on underparts and underwing, long barred tail, and just its large size makes it a definite 'tick' as a lifer for me.

What an amazing start !

We now skirt the edge of the lake along the embankment of the dam. Several River Terns (which have been calling all night) rise and dip as they hunt for fish, competing with three species of Kingfishers - Common, White-throated and the Pied.

River Tern...

Several animals have come to the edge of the lake to drink - mainly Nilgai, but there are also some Wild Boar.

We now enter the grasslands - once extending across vast swathes of Rajasthan, but increasingly under pressure now for agriculture and urbanisation. This unique habitat is a favourite of many families of birds - both resident and migratory. We quickly notch up all the usual suspects - several Larks, Pipits and Chats.

Paddyfield(?) Pipit ...

Indian Bushlark ...

Ashy-crowned Sparrowlark

But it is clear that many winter visitors have already left for their Northern homes. The checklist here has several species one may occasionally see when birds are on passage. Sure enough a flock of Common Rosefinches are flushed from a flowering Roheda tree, the males already showing much rose in their plumage.

Several of the family's pet dogs have been following us quietly, well-trained when serious birders are afoot ! But a terrier cannot quite restrain himself any more. He has to show the guests one of his 'tricks'. This starts with his usual springy gallop, but then he can maintain the same pace and rhythm on three legs, and then on just two ! I'm told he can even alternate the two legs by using the fore and hind on the same side or one on either side - what a show-off !

As we exit the grassland for sandy, stony scrub the birdlife changes abruptly. Shy Rufous-tailed Shrikes just do not allow close approach, unlike their commoner cousins the Southern Grey and Long-tailed. Another good bird for me as I have just a single sighting earlier in Bharatpur.

A solitary Indian Courser in the green grass closer to the lakeshore, shows up his striking head markings.

We have been observing a 'ring-tail' quartering low over the ground some distance away. Quite clearly a juvenile Harrier - but the jury is divided whether Pallid (which would make it a new bird for me) or Montagu's.

Harrier - probably juvenile Montagu's ...

Other, larger raptors have started appearing as the sun climbs higher - Booted Eagle and Eurasian Marsh Harrier. Also the first of the Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse flighting in for their drink of water for the day. With their distinctive call and unique flight silhouette, they settle close to the shore of the lake.

We are now at the Eastern margin of the lake, relatively close to the (200+) Bar-headed Geese feeding on the grass. Somendra decides to stalk closer using what little cover there is available comprising thorny bushes and boulders. For some reason the Geese are somewhat wary, but he does get close enough for some flight shots with his big lens.

Somendra and Geese ...

Bar-headed Geese in flight ...

It is now past noon and the sun is hot as we turn back for Camp. A single trumpeting-note heralds the arrival of 4 Sarus Cranes as they fly past us on silent wings. Parents and two juveniles. The male juvenile is already taller than his mother. What a beautiful family, always staying close together whenever we observe them over the next two days.

Sarus Crane family ...

And so we wind down our first morning's birding. While we tuck into lunch, a White Wagtail catches prey just a few feet away...

Do join me again as we continue with our birding at Chhatra Sagar ...





Cheers !