We have spent several restful days in Ranikhet. The family is now ready for a real 'touristy' sojourn away to Nainital.
It appears that a good place to stop for breakfast is at Garampani, and so it proves to be. Our menu has been set beforehand - Aloo-puri and Kumaoni raita. Miraculously that is indeed the special for the day in the dhaba. Good call. Bellies full we move on across the Kosi and start climbing up again.
The gorge narrows and the sides are sheer. Scattered trees cling to the steep slopes with scrub and grass clothing the rocky crags. Somi has just commented that the terrain is perfect 'ghooral country', that almost immediately we spot one. Ghooral or The Mountain Goat. First standing broadside, at the edge of a rock outcrop straight up the cliff from us. Then, as we spill out of the vehicle to all have a look through bins, it turns to face us, the only movement an occasional flapping of the ears.
Ghooral
As we near Nainital the birdlife picks up. Three fairly common species that we have not encountered in Ranikhet so far are seen here. Pied Bushchat, Common Stonechat and numerous Jungle Mynas. In a few patches of forest the only sound is that of cicadas. They are very loud and the vehicle rings as we drive past. Slaty -headed Parakeets are common along the way.
Slaty-headed Parakeet
Nainital is just as I remember it from previous visits. In many ways a typical 'Himalayan Hill Station'. The old timers will bemoan the good old days, but I think if you know what to expect and are up for it then you can enjoy yourself. Of course it is crowded with jostling tourists at this time of year. Touts are pushy. But if you go with the flow, ignore what you don't want to see or hear, then its fun.
It appears all morning there was an unusually heavy mist. Clouds are still clothing the hills that ring the lake even though the sun is strong overhead.
Hillside above Nainital
The family is quickly into their stride. First, a boat-ride. Excellent. That gives me half an hour to check out the butterflies in the small public garden. And, find the first water redstart of the trip. A Plumbeous Water Redstart flies down to the pebbly edge of the lake where the boats are moored. It keeps fanning its reddish tail dodging between the long punts bobbing in the waves.
Naini Lake
After the boatride the ladies are very keen to ride up the Cable car, as the children vacillate. Touts clamour for our attention " sir why you want to go on Govt cable car ? For 7 persons it is Rs. 1050 for 6 minute ride and waiting is 90 minutes." One flips open a small album with well-thumbed photos of children throwing snowballs and suchlike, and says " I take you to 6 best tourist sites for Rs. 1200 full day sightseeing". The ladies brush past. I know their main agenda today would be shopping. The Mall and Bhotia Market beckon.
Meanwhile the children have found a bowling alley with real wooden pins. That keeps them going for a while. Having worked up an appetite we stroll across to Sackley's, a bakery and restaurant. Chocolate ecclairs and lemon tarts are our choice from their wide assortment of tantalising pastries.
We move slowly down the Mall. Many small shops have interesting stuff on display. They have things that you would typically find in many hill stations - walking sticks, pocket-knives, flashlights, good-luck charms. I duck into a bookstore. They have an excellent selection of books on Natural History, Shikar, Mountaineering. I am delighted to find Frank S. Smythe's 'The Valley of Flowers', such classics have long been out of print.
Lunch is at the Machan. Cosy tables overlook the busy street just below. We have been looking forward to the steamed chicken momos. These are ordered with chinese dishes ( the children all have their personal favourites so the selection is quite eclectic), and it is an excellent meal. A Tibetan family at the next table is quite enjoying their tandoori meal.
Afterwards we sit in the shade of young chinar trees next to the Flats as the ladies indulge in retail therapy. An interesting hour people-watching. Vendors with attractive fruit baskets are doing good business. I am reminded of Srinagar. Sitting on the Promenade watching the shikaras gliding past on Dal lake.
Fruit basket
As I update this blog back in Jaipur on a hot sunday afternoon, I console myself that there are delicious chilled mangoes for lunch, even though I have just spent a sweaty two hours trying to get photographs of Paradise Flycatchers and Golden Orioles in the morning - without much success ...
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