We wait by the side of the bridle path at the rendezvous point near Ghanerao. Soon the sound of horses gets closer and then the riders appear around the corner of the track. Khem is leading the horse safari and his clients are all serious riders in their full riding habit and attire. They dismount and the horses are taken over by the syces in attendance. Udaijit and I are introduced to the riders, with whom we will be competing for the time and attention of our host Khem over the next two days - birding and hiking for us, while they ride the same tracks.
There is still a couple of hours of daylight left and Khem drives us in his Jeep towards Kana Bandha. The terrain is interspersed with rocky hills and scrubby plains. We climb the embankment of the lake and park on top. The water levels have receded, but the setting is enchanting. Boulder-strewn hills surround the lake on either side. We scan the water and the far sandy banks. A solitary Great Thick-knee stands close to a pair of Black Ibis. An assortment of Egrets has a taller companion, a Painted Stork. A few River Terns are flying over the water, their buoyant flight lifting our jaded urban spirits. Several Pied Kingfishers also hover and dive, to emerge triumphant with small fish clutched firmly in their bills. Khem points out a large striped animal on the far shore. It is a Hyena. He shambles up and across the rocks and is lost to view.
A flight each of small waders and ducks are too far away to ID properly. A pair of Black-headed Ibis fly low over the water and land on the opposite bank. The light is fading quickly now as I hear a deep 'bubo' call from the rocky crags to our side. It has to be a Eurasian Eagle Owl. We race along the embankment to the hill where huge boulders have tumbled down to the lake bed. And sure enough a large owl with his pointed ears is perched close by. As I try and take pictures he is disturbed and flies off a little further and perches again on an electricity pole. An almost full moon has risen and he is silhouetted in the silvery light. Magical.
Later, back in Ghanerao, after we have enjoyed an excellent meal, we firm up our plans for the morrow. Our birding party, augmented by Salim (our guide) will start at 6:30 am and hike up from the Kumbhalgarh Sanctuary gate towards the Fort. The riders will follow a little later on the same track. We are told it is 8 kms, and only the last section is very steep uphill. Sounds like a piece of cake. From Ghanerao we can see a forest fire glowing in red lines on the hills, fanned by a stiff northerly wind. Apparently the fire is not close to the track, but as we discover the next day we are wrong.
Next morning we commence our hike from a Gate leading into the Kumbhalgarh Sanctuary.
It is fresh and invigorating at this hour and soon we are surrounded by wonderful bird calls. Painted Francolin call from the edges of the wheat and rapeseed fields adjoining the forested hills. A continuous drumming call like that of a motorcycle has to be that of Barred Buttonquail. The former we never actually see, and the latter we are just allowed tantalising glimpses of. Scattered hutments of the Tribal villagers are quickly left behind and we enter the forest proper. Superb trees tower overhead in the valleys - the stately Baheda (Terminalia bellerica) and Mahuwa (Madhuca longifolia). Steep rocky hillsides are adorned with leafless Salai (Boswellia serrata) and the Karaya or Indian Ghost Tree ( Sterculia urens). Many trees are flowering now including the Flame of the Forest and Silk Cotton. Many species of Ficus trees (Badh and Goolar to name two) are laden with fruit. Birds are plentiful. Very early we chance upon our first 'target' bird - a Streak-throated Woodpecker.
This is the only 'green' woodpecker of the Aravalli hills. Black-rumped Flamebacks and Yellow-fronted Woodpeckers are common, but we are looking for two other rare species. But more on those later.
We are following the course of a perennial stream winding down from the hills above. Naturally the track is covered in shade as the forest gets thicker along the watercourse. We arrive at our first landmark, Thandi Beri. A Forest Resthouse ( no electricity) overlooks a crocodile infested lake. I am able to photograph several butterflies and dragonflies here. Udaijit points out the fresh spoor of a Leopard - the prints clear in the sand going downhill from where we have come.
The track now starts to climb higher. Calls of all three Parakeets, the Coppersmith and the Brown-headed Barbet fill the forest. Salim stops abruptly. He has heard the call of a Grey Junglefowl - another target bird. We proceed cautiously. However, the horseriders have caught us up. We wait for a few minutes after they have passed us before moving on. White-bellied Drongos chase each other through the trees. No Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo and no Crested Tree Swift for now. But we are rewarded by a confiding group of 7-8 Tawny-bellied Babblers as they forage through the bushes and rocks on the other side of the stream.
We stop for a swig of the waterbottle. Just then a covey of Quail explode into flight from almost at our feet. Too quick to ID properly but should have been Jungle Bush Quail I think. As we resume our march we can now see smoke curling ahead and it is disturbingly close. The wind has kept up all night and all morning, and obviously the forest fire has spread. We are not quite alarmed but we do glimpse the flames feeding on the dry grass. Salim says the trees are safe unless it is deadwood. Perhaps this is how fresh undergrowth will spring forth and the forest regenerate itself.
Just then above the crackle of the flames we hear a quick rustling over dead leaves deep inside the dense bushes beside the path. Excitement mounts as we get glimpses of a male Grey Junglefowl and two females in heavy cover amongst boulders and bushes. I am desperate for a record shot but we agree that the fire is too close and that the birds may be feeling threatened so we move forward. We do come across another fowl later, but it dives into even heavier cover instantly.
It is now close to noon and we have been walking for hours. Surely we must have covered 8 kms by now?? Udaijit has to return to Jaipur tonight so he is rightly getting somewhat perturbed since he has a 6 hour drive ahead of him. I, on the other hand, somewhat selfishly in hindsight, am looking forward to a cold beer, lunch and an afternoon siesta. When we cross a milestone we realise we have already hiked 11 kms, and this last bit is as steep as it was made to be ! We still don't know how much further it is.
Our lethargy is forgotten a moment later as we get good views of another terrific bird. A pair of Red Spurfowl, very close and in the open. The male is flushed and flies off a short distance. He waits for the female to run up to him, and they move into cover. Meanwhile we decide to call for the Gypsy to fetch us to save time. Except that there are no phone towers in the forest - hence no signal for the cellphones !
We trudge along. The path is now so steep it switches back on itself in zigzags. I am knackered. Udaijit is clearly fitter. He is careful to stay ahead and keeps looking back to see if I attempt to catch up. The only thing keeping me going is another pair of Red Spurfowl we observe. Finally, Salim gets a signal on his phone, the Gypsy is summoned, and the last km we cover in the vehicle. Whew !
Khem has rooms at the Aodhi - a luxury resort near the Fort of Kumbhalgarh. Later in the evening, while the Safari folks are visiting the Fort I decide to walk down to the village from where Green Avadavat have been reported in the sugarcane fields. Just off the tarmac road , I am rewarded by another 'lifer' for me - the Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker.
In fact a pair, having an intimate moment. Again the call gave them away, otherwise I would never have seen them, they are so small and camouflage so well.
There is still a couple of hours of daylight left and Khem drives us in his Jeep towards Kana Bandha. The terrain is interspersed with rocky hills and scrubby plains. We climb the embankment of the lake and park on top. The water levels have receded, but the setting is enchanting. Boulder-strewn hills surround the lake on either side. We scan the water and the far sandy banks. A solitary Great Thick-knee stands close to a pair of Black Ibis. An assortment of Egrets has a taller companion, a Painted Stork. A few River Terns are flying over the water, their buoyant flight lifting our jaded urban spirits. Several Pied Kingfishers also hover and dive, to emerge triumphant with small fish clutched firmly in their bills. Khem points out a large striped animal on the far shore. It is a Hyena. He shambles up and across the rocks and is lost to view.
A flight each of small waders and ducks are too far away to ID properly. A pair of Black-headed Ibis fly low over the water and land on the opposite bank. The light is fading quickly now as I hear a deep 'bubo' call from the rocky crags to our side. It has to be a Eurasian Eagle Owl. We race along the embankment to the hill where huge boulders have tumbled down to the lake bed. And sure enough a large owl with his pointed ears is perched close by. As I try and take pictures he is disturbed and flies off a little further and perches again on an electricity pole. An almost full moon has risen and he is silhouetted in the silvery light. Magical.
Later, back in Ghanerao, after we have enjoyed an excellent meal, we firm up our plans for the morrow. Our birding party, augmented by Salim (our guide) will start at 6:30 am and hike up from the Kumbhalgarh Sanctuary gate towards the Fort. The riders will follow a little later on the same track. We are told it is 8 kms, and only the last section is very steep uphill. Sounds like a piece of cake. From Ghanerao we can see a forest fire glowing in red lines on the hills, fanned by a stiff northerly wind. Apparently the fire is not close to the track, but as we discover the next day we are wrong.
Next morning we commence our hike from a Gate leading into the Kumbhalgarh Sanctuary.
It is fresh and invigorating at this hour and soon we are surrounded by wonderful bird calls. Painted Francolin call from the edges of the wheat and rapeseed fields adjoining the forested hills. A continuous drumming call like that of a motorcycle has to be that of Barred Buttonquail. The former we never actually see, and the latter we are just allowed tantalising glimpses of. Scattered hutments of the Tribal villagers are quickly left behind and we enter the forest proper. Superb trees tower overhead in the valleys - the stately Baheda (Terminalia bellerica) and Mahuwa (Madhuca longifolia). Steep rocky hillsides are adorned with leafless Salai (Boswellia serrata) and the Karaya or Indian Ghost Tree ( Sterculia urens). Many trees are flowering now including the Flame of the Forest and Silk Cotton. Many species of Ficus trees (Badh and Goolar to name two) are laden with fruit. Birds are plentiful. Very early we chance upon our first 'target' bird - a Streak-throated Woodpecker.
This is the only 'green' woodpecker of the Aravalli hills. Black-rumped Flamebacks and Yellow-fronted Woodpeckers are common, but we are looking for two other rare species. But more on those later.
We are following the course of a perennial stream winding down from the hills above. Naturally the track is covered in shade as the forest gets thicker along the watercourse. We arrive at our first landmark, Thandi Beri. A Forest Resthouse ( no electricity) overlooks a crocodile infested lake. I am able to photograph several butterflies and dragonflies here. Udaijit points out the fresh spoor of a Leopard - the prints clear in the sand going downhill from where we have come.
The track now starts to climb higher. Calls of all three Parakeets, the Coppersmith and the Brown-headed Barbet fill the forest. Salim stops abruptly. He has heard the call of a Grey Junglefowl - another target bird. We proceed cautiously. However, the horseriders have caught us up. We wait for a few minutes after they have passed us before moving on. White-bellied Drongos chase each other through the trees. No Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo and no Crested Tree Swift for now. But we are rewarded by a confiding group of 7-8 Tawny-bellied Babblers as they forage through the bushes and rocks on the other side of the stream.
We stop for a swig of the waterbottle. Just then a covey of Quail explode into flight from almost at our feet. Too quick to ID properly but should have been Jungle Bush Quail I think. As we resume our march we can now see smoke curling ahead and it is disturbingly close. The wind has kept up all night and all morning, and obviously the forest fire has spread. We are not quite alarmed but we do glimpse the flames feeding on the dry grass. Salim says the trees are safe unless it is deadwood. Perhaps this is how fresh undergrowth will spring forth and the forest regenerate itself.
Just then above the crackle of the flames we hear a quick rustling over dead leaves deep inside the dense bushes beside the path. Excitement mounts as we get glimpses of a male Grey Junglefowl and two females in heavy cover amongst boulders and bushes. I am desperate for a record shot but we agree that the fire is too close and that the birds may be feeling threatened so we move forward. We do come across another fowl later, but it dives into even heavier cover instantly.
It is now close to noon and we have been walking for hours. Surely we must have covered 8 kms by now?? Udaijit has to return to Jaipur tonight so he is rightly getting somewhat perturbed since he has a 6 hour drive ahead of him. I, on the other hand, somewhat selfishly in hindsight, am looking forward to a cold beer, lunch and an afternoon siesta. When we cross a milestone we realise we have already hiked 11 kms, and this last bit is as steep as it was made to be ! We still don't know how much further it is.
Our lethargy is forgotten a moment later as we get good views of another terrific bird. A pair of Red Spurfowl, very close and in the open. The male is flushed and flies off a short distance. He waits for the female to run up to him, and they move into cover. Meanwhile we decide to call for the Gypsy to fetch us to save time. Except that there are no phone towers in the forest - hence no signal for the cellphones !
We trudge along. The path is now so steep it switches back on itself in zigzags. I am knackered. Udaijit is clearly fitter. He is careful to stay ahead and keeps looking back to see if I attempt to catch up. The only thing keeping me going is another pair of Red Spurfowl we observe. Finally, Salim gets a signal on his phone, the Gypsy is summoned, and the last km we cover in the vehicle. Whew !
Khem has rooms at the Aodhi - a luxury resort near the Fort of Kumbhalgarh. Later in the evening, while the Safari folks are visiting the Fort I decide to walk down to the village from where Green Avadavat have been reported in the sugarcane fields. Just off the tarmac road , I am rewarded by another 'lifer' for me - the Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker.
In fact a pair, having an intimate moment. Again the call gave them away, otherwise I would never have seen them, they are so small and camouflage so well.
Beside the fields of sugarcane and wheat there are lots of birds - Crested Buntings, Chestnut-shouldered Petronias and Yellow-eyed Babblers the better ones. As the sun sets a Peregrine Falcon appears. It spiralls upwards and then I observe it going into a high speed stoop. I could not see the result of the dive but it appears to have arrowed into one of the three Ficus trees here all of which are laden with Flying Foxes now starting to take flight. I try and scramble closer but my path is barred by an inebriated villager who has decided to enjoy Holi a day earlier.
And the Avadavats ? I describe the birds to a helpful farmer, and he says yes ! The birds stay in the sugarcane but they come out to perch on the wires. Can you see those 2 just now ? It is getting dark but I observe the birds through the binoculars and I can't be sure. For the record, I do visit the same area the next evening and observe flocks of birds I am not able to ID - some appear to be Buntings, but not the usual Bunting suspects.
The next day is Holi and Khem and I plan to hike the high hills parallel to the Sanctuary. We have Salim with us. Our morning has a brilliant beginning. Close to the Aodhi we score with the White-naped Woodpecker - my first sighting of this rare species. It is a pair. On the same Badh tree we also observe a Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker and a Yellow-crowned Woodpecker. On the adjacent tree there is a Black-rumped Flameback. Four Woodpecker species all in sight at the same time. What a start !
The rough track climbs higher. The hills are relatively denuded. It is also drier. The valleys below less fertile. Perfect raptor country. And we are rewarded soon. A pair of Peregrine Falcons quarter the hillsides slowly. Later one individual pounces on some prey just below us. A Kestrel is perched on a high branch of a tree, the early morning light glinting off its rufous back. A Short-toed Snake Eagle flies overhead across the valley. Later Khem picks up probably the same individual on perch on the opposite hill a good mile away. It appears almost white at perch facing us, with a large owlish head.
Vocal Shikras are common, but we also observe a pair of Eurasian Sparrowhawk in flight close to a Shikra - the differences in underwing pattern discernible. As the sun gets stronger a soaring Vulture is identified as the Long-billed.
On a high hillside we spend several minutes in an interesting area. Here flowering bushes (orangish flowers) and a nullah with dense vegetation and trees have attracted several small birds. Almost all of them are orange fronted ! Much like devotees emerging from a Hindu Temple with vermilion smeared foreheads.
These include the Rufous-fronted Prinia which actually does have a real red forehead. But all the others have orange foreheads from the colour of the (pollen?) on the flowers they are sipping nectar from. These include the Whitethroat, Petronia and Oriental White-eyes. Here are also Black-lored Tit amongst other common birds.
On our way back we descend to a fertile valley. In the cool shade of leafy trees by a Well we add to our list the Common Iora and the Red-breasted Flycatcher.
Later that evening I revisit the sugarcane fields but fail to connect with the Aavadavats. A solitary juvenile Red-headed Vulture is the only addition to the list. And then the next morning while driving back to Jaipur a few Egyptian Vultures over Nasirabad. A super outing and the addition of 6 species to my 'Rajasthan' list.
Great blog Sahdev! I'm travelling to Jaipur in December and hope to visit some of the places you've described in this blog :)
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