Close encounters with the snow leopards of Spiti

19th February 2017 

We round yet another hairpin bend, and there it is.

An animal is framed in our headlights at the apex of the curve. It is perhaps closer than 20 yards from us. The legs and the tail are hidden behind a low-piled berm of snow at the edge of the road. A longish ghostly grey body is glimpsed briefly in the thickening snow flurries. And then it melts away from view - moving unhurriedly down a declivity as we remain frozen in the stalled vehicle.

Then pandemonium breaks out.

'Get the torch!'

'Where is it?'... 'in my bag' ... 'which bag?'... 'how do you get the bag open'...

Precious seconds are wasted as the torch is found. Four men tumble out in excitement from the vehicle.

A few hurried paces and then we are at the very point on the edge of the road where the animal disappeared. The torchlight illuminates a steep rocky slope now covered with a smattering of fresh snow.

And there it is again. Walking down and away from our vantage point in casual grace. Then it gains the curve of the road from where we have just ascended moments earlier. From no more than 60 yards away it turns to look back at us for several seconds, the eyes reflecting the light from the torch. The falling snow swirls and eddies around us.

And then the grey ghost vanishes from view.

We have our first sighting of a wild snow leopard, and we are technically still not yet in the Spiti valley.

Late in the day we have driven up from Khab, the magnificent confluence of the Spiti and the Sutlej rivers. The village of Nako is another couple of switchbacks away in the dark above us. We have the big one from the wishlist.

Not a bad start to our winter birding trip to the Trans-Himalaya!

But we are not finished yet with this first snow leopard. The tiredness from two full days of driving up from Jaipur has melted away. The vehicle is turned around and we go straight back down the hairpin bends to see whether we can surprise the animal again. Stinging wind-driven snowflakes are ignored as the torch is flashed from an open window. The terrain is open, yet the boulders (some snow-covered, others dark) provide perfect camouflage to the snow leopard. Let alone now in the dark, even in bright sunlight it could be just a few yards away and we wouldn't spot it. Reluctantly we turn back around.

Back again at the same hairpin bend on the road, we now cast around for spoor. A steep snow-covered embankment perhaps 25 feet high tells the tale. The mint-fresh pug-marks illustrate how the animal came down in a series of bounds to the road. CV points out that the hind paws have thrust into the same points in the snow as the front paws. There are softer single depressions in the snow behind the actual pug-marks - these were made by the end of a long bushy tail thumping into the snow to aid its descent.

The adrenaline rush would see us through an uncomfortable night in Nako.

21st February 2017

The previous day we have driven leisurely up the Spiti valley from Nako to Kaza. The weather forecast has proved incorrect, and we have encountered alternating periods of sunshine and overcast conditions with occasional snow flurries. Birds have popped up at regular intervals and have kept us alert. H has rattled off the ID's of unfamiliar species. Two herds of bharal (blue sheep) seen from the road  have allowed us longer pit-stops to observe and photograph them.

We have comfortable rooms at a home-stay in Kaza for three nights.

Today the morning has broken crystal clear. Naturally it is much colder. Despite the heroics of S (who has not only driven these treacherous roads and but has also woken at nights to turn the engine of his vehicle to prevent the engine going cold), today we can't get the vehicle started. The diesel in the tank has frozen overnight.

And so, much of the morning has gone in heating the fuel tank with a primus stove, and in pouring boiling water over assorted pipes and pumps.

When we do get started for the village of Kibber, the sun reflects brilliantly off the frozen landscape. But as often happens, trouble comes in pairs. Only a few miles from Kaza, we have to stop again. Now the radiator coolant is boiling over.

From L to R (Sahdev = the author; Happy = CV; Somendra = S; Harkirat = H)

(Unaware at this moment that our vehicle will soon be hors-de-combat for a while) 

(photo courtesy - Somendra)

 Soon a convoy of jeeps overtakes us. Each vehicle has adventurous youngsters armed with walkie-talkies and other sophisticated gear. We cadge a bottle of water from them, return to Kaza, get on some bottles of coolant, and head back out to Kibber again.

Kibber has been in the news for occasional snow leopard sightings in the winter months for several years. We already have a tick on our bucket list from our first sighting near Nako, but secretly we all want a good look at a snow leopard in daylight. This could be the day. But you have only to remind yourself of Peter Matthiessen's 'The Snow Leopard', in which the author in the company of the great field biologist George Schaller, fails to actually see a snow leopard over weeks of wandering the higher Himalayas in Nepal.

On the left bank of the Spiti river is Key monastery.

From here the road narrows and loops on towards Kibber which at 4200 M is higher than Kaza (3700 M). On another off-track leading from Kibber to Chicham, in the far distance we can see some figures getting off a parked vehicle and scrambling down a steep slope. They look animated. Some of them are gesticulating towards a gorge in the background. Soon other vehicles line up behind the first, and a steady stream of people work their way down the snow slope. We decide to investigate what the excitement is all about. 

One person has just climbed back on to the road. On being asked what can be seen down below he replies - 'there is a snow leopard on a kill!'

Whaaat! 

I'm quite sure we get off the vehicle far quicker than from the time of the first sighting. In the excitement I make two small mistakes. First, I forget my gloves. Try not to laugh, but I'm actually carrying three pairs on the trip: a thin fleece inner, a woolen pair, and a leather outer. All forgotten in my haste. Second, in my bare hands I'm now clutching a spotting scope and a tripod - not really a mistake at that very moment, but in hindsight painfully so. After all, most snow leopard sightings are from hundreds of yards away, sometimes from miles away. So, the spotting scope is a necessity I think.

We have only a short steep descent to join a vocal excited group. The trick is not to follow the exact same well-trodden snow-compressed track which is now quite slippery, but instead to dig ankle-deep into the virgin snow and gain a firmer purchase on unfamiliar terrain.

A small knot of people is gathered at the edge of the gorge. I prepare to set up the tripod and the spotting scope in order to scan the opposite cliff-face. All my fingers are numb, and alarmingly my right thumb is now turning a strange shade of blue - purple even. Not good.

I turn to the nearest person - 'where is it?'

 He leans forward and nods his head -'there'.

A snow leopard is sprawled across his kill on a shelf a mere 20 yards directly below us!

So much for the spotting scope! At this distance we do not even need our binoculars to look at the snow leopard.

It is an old male. A very old male. 

I take a good glance at it, click a couple of photographs, and then I can't bear to look at it again. A strange thing to report but that is how I feel at this moment. 

I hope to explain why. And to write about a large herd of Ibex, two herds of bharal, a red fox, and of course about the birds of the trip in the next post.

sahdevsingh2004@yahoo.co.in

Garhwal 1 - exploring the Rupin and Supin valleys

Day 1 (May 12th 2014): drive from Jaipur, Rajasthan to Naitwar, Uttarakhand. 15 hours.

The drive is enlivened by music and conversation. My birding companions for this 9-day trip to the Garhwal himalayas are Somendra(SS) and Harkirat(HSS). Amongst their many talents they are also history buffs. I listen to tales of Rajput chivalry and Sikh history. We make excellent time on the highway.

My memories are stoked when we cross the Yamuna at Paonta Sahib. I remember the days, decades ago, when we lived in Dehra Dun, to cross the river my father would have to drive his jeep up a ramp onto a wooden ferry.  A steel cable strung across the two banks and clipped to the ferry would prevent us being swept downstream with the current. That crossing itself was as much fun for a boy as was catching mahseer in the rivers around here.

We purchase supplies at Herbetpur - soup, instant noodles, mineral water, chocolates, and an inspired choice: fresh-baked biscuits from a local bakery.

In the pouring rain, as darkness descends, we finally pull into Naitwar and get settled into the Forest Rest House (FRH). The chowkidar serves us the first of the ubiquitous rajma-chawal meals of this trip. Thunder rumbles intermittently at night, and so it is no surprise to wake up to an overcast morning.

  

Day 2: Naitwar - Dhaula - along the Rupin river, then trek partway up Istragad from confluence with Rupin

 I am up at dawn a little past 5 am. The FRH is surrounded by excellent forest. Bird calls are muted this morning, but many common species are nesting nearby. Busy parents carry feed for nestlings. Amongst them - Russet Sparrows, Grey Tits, Himalayan Bulbuls, Grey-headed Canary Flycatchers. Quite surprisingly, the commonest flycatcher is the Dark-sided Flycatcher. Juvenile Spotted Doves hide in the foliage, much smaller in size compared to Rufous-turtle Doves. A pair of noisy Black Bulbuls frolics in the canopy of broad-leaved trees.

Later, fortified by a hearty breakfast of eggs and paranthas, we are off to explore the valleys of the Rupin.

Rupin river

The Rupin is a tributary of the Tons(which in turn flows into the Yamuna). Coniferous and mixed broad-leaved forest clothes the narrow valley.

A light drizzle persists through the day. Rain ponchos keep us dry when we stop the vehicle and step out to check out any promising birding area. One has to be careful not to get the camera and the binoculars wet.

Plumbeous Redstarts perch on boulders in the river, the males fanning and dipping their rufous tails. Then the first of the White-capped Water Redstarts, their contrasting colours attractive even in the poor light. Soon enough the Brown Dippers start appearing. There are several spotted juveniles begging food from their uniformly dark brown parents.

  Spot-winged Grosbeak

These grosbeaks are relatively higher altitudinal birds. Hence it is a real surprise to find this group of 7 individuals here. The females are darkly streaked, and the males sport the tell-tale white spots on the wings. HSS conjectures that the weather system is still probably depositing snow in the higher reaches, thus driving the birds down.

 Temple at Dhaula

SS has traveled extensively in Uttarakhand the past couple of years, photographing the Forest Rest Houses. These have been recently published in a coffee table book. He tells us that the deities which reside in such temples are often worshipped by the villagers just as ordinary human beings. Neighbouring village deities could be related to each other (father-son or suchlike) and would be taken in procession to meet their 'relatives' during festive occasions. Another may even be holding a grudge against a particular deity!

Dhaula village

Most of the houses are built in the traditional architecture of this area with roofs constructed from slate tiles (though increasingly these are being replaced by corrugated steel in newer construction). Houses are two-storied, with the livestock corralled on the ground floor, and the family living on the upper floor. Agriculture is subsistence.

 Blue-capped Rock Thrush

Our first pair of minivets forces us to pull out the guidebooks - clearly they are Long-tailed Minivets  from the distinctive calls and plumage. Other common birds keep the bins busy: Red-billed Blue Magpies, Bushchats(Grey and Pied), Tits (Black-lored and Black-throated), Slaty-headed Parakeets, Great Barbets, skulking Streaked Laughing-Thrushes, Grey-hooded Warblers, Himalayan Swiftlets

A quick lunch at a local dhaba: yes, rajma-chawal again! But served this time with a fiery chutney. 

We commence our hike up the Istragad ravine. There is a FRH at Istragad but we do not expect to get very far in this weather.

Istragad from Dhaula

The track is not difficult but some patches are slippery. A forktail jumps off the path only yards from me. It is a Black-backed Forktail. As we wait patiently for it to show itself in the vegetation choked rivulet, the others spot a Small Niltava. A quite wonderful little dark blue flycatcher.

Driving back to Naitwar from Dhaula - weather clearing by evening

View of Kedarkantha (?) en route

 Naitwar Forest Rest House bathed in evening sunlight

Birds actively chase insects before the light fades. A tiny babbler causes me some confusion before HSS identifies it as the Black-chinned Babbler. A pair of Grey Treepies are being amorous in the pines. A Kaleej Pheasant couple feeds in the courtyard outside the chowkidar's hut, tolerated by the domestic fowl, and occasionally chased (unsuccessfully) by a small dog.

Day 3: Naitwar - Jakhol - along the Supin river, then trek partway up Obragad from confluence with Supin

A bright sunny morning springs two new species for us at the FRH. A shy Eurasian Blackbird and a group of Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons. A night-calling Mountain Scops Owl has gone silent.

The drive to Jakhol is quite scenic through patches of dense forest. The rising thermals have thrust aloft many Himalayan Griffons. The vultures circle high above the snow-covered alps or glide lower hugging the steep hillsides. We stop on a rocky cliff face where swifts twitter past with astonishing bursts of speed. While the others try and get photographs of these Fork-tailed Swifts with their sophisticated lenses, I am happy to photograph the plentiful butterflies basking in the sun. En route our raptor count is augmented by a Crested Serpent Eagle and a Common Kestrel.

From Jakhol the track has been blocked by a landslide so we have to walk down a few kms to the Supin.

Upper reaches of Supin

Flood-damaged suspension bridge on Supin

Crossing the Supin - this was one of the safer bridges

Obragad is a ravine debouching the obra-'gad' (gad means a river or stream) into the Supin. We have to negotiate a couple of tricky crossings on rickety wooden planks to enter the ravine.

Obragad just above confluence with Supin

Hiking up the Obragad ravine 

The best birds are a pair of Little Forktails frolicking on boulders sprayed with the gushing waters. Farther up the ravine, in a grassy glade with sparse tree cover, we struggle with some shy birds. Whiskered Yuhinas are distinctive but a couple of warblers less so.

Rufous-bellied Niltava

A pair of these niltavas delight us with their sunlight-fired brilliant blue plumage(blue on the back and head). The underparts are more yellow/orange than rufous.

Back at the FRH the evening sunlight has flushed many insects. Many birds are hunting on the wing like flycatchers. These include a Lesser Yellownape and a Brown-fronted Woodpecker! A Plain-backed Thrush perches briefly on a post before diving back into cover. I try and locate a calling Greater Yellownape but without success.

Next up- bullfinches and more: we drive further up the tons valley and explore the region from Sankri to Taluka and beyond...

sahdevsingh2004@yahoo.co.in

Raptors of Tal Chhapar

 October - November 2012.
As the sun sets over the grasslands of Tal Chhapar, the harriers begin their thrilling show.
This is the famous harrier roost.
For a few days (or weeks in a season) at the most, this daily spectacle has enthralled visiting birders over the years.
 The monsoon has nurtured a sudden explosion of grasses in these arid flatlands at the edge of the Thar Desert. Tens of harriers, mainly on passage migration, hunt the plethora of grasshoppers, crickets and locusts, during the day. At dusk they roost on the ground.
I have deliberately put away the camera, determined to just experience this with the binoculars.
These elegant, long-winged raptors glide low over the ground, checking suddenly with splayed tail-feathers and dangling talons, the narrow supple wings arching to arrest momentum. In mid-flight they abruptly dive to the ground, sometimes flushing another harrier already at roost.
Magical.

Sunset at Tal Chhapar ...

A large proportion of the harriers are Montagu's - a few males, but most females or juveniles.
The larger Eurasian Marsh Harriers are easily distinguishable in this swirling vortex, but I struggle with the Pallid Harriers. Only one male is clearly identifiable by its unmarked pale grey plumage.
The rare Hen Harrier (rare for Rajasthan that is) has also been reported from here.

Earlier in the day we had observed a Long-legged Buzzard from close quarters. This is a juvenile...

Long-legged Buzzard

Long-legged indeed in full stride ... the rufous capri pants swirling in the breeze !

The much smaller and widespread White-eyed Buzzard, in my experience, is surprisingly uncommon here .
Here is a juvenile, hence without the tell-tale white iris of the adult ...

White-eyed Buzzard

Photographs of the Common Buzzard have been appearing from here, including those of a dark morph, so we are really happy to find it perched obligingly in plain sight, but not allowing close approach. A lifer for me ...

Common Buzzard

Flapping its wings at perch to swat-off a pesky Black Drongo ...

To many birders, probably what is really unique about Tal Chhapar is the variety of falcons.
The list is superb - Laggar Falcon, Merlin, Red-necked Falcon, Common Kestrel, the rare Lesser Kestrel, and the diminutive Eurasian Hobby.
Here the hobby hunts right through the day as we have seen, though in my experience this species is rather crepuscular in other areas.

Eurasian Hobby

Larger numbers of Common Kestrel can be observed right through the day, hovering above the grasslands.

Common Kestrel, female ...

We were lucky to notch-up the rare Lesser Kestrel, sometimes observed on migration through here. The male was distinctive in  flight with its bluish-grey wing panel. My birding companion was even luckier to have a Lesser Kestrel come and perch almost on top of his head on a electricity pole towards the west of the park near the salt pans.

One of my favourite raptors is almost a certainty if you visit here.
 The Laggar Falcon.
This large falcon, the size of a Peregrine, loves to show-off its aerial prowess.
Actually a pair of them, that we have seen over other visits. They will suddenly appear out of nowhere. Powerful, narrow falcon wings scything through the air as they spar with the other raptors in the air. They love to harass the kestrels, while the harriers are contemptuously swept past.

Montagu's Harrier ...

Pallid Harrier ...

When this male Pallid Harrier, with its languid, yet buoyant, flight overflew us from close, we were quite sure of the ID from its underwing pattern. Yet, at perch it showed a contrastingly darker upper grey breast, compared to its white belly, confusingly like the Hen Harrier ??

The Tal Chhapar checklist of eagles is impressive.
My personal observations only include - Steppe, Imperial, Tawny, Short-toed Snake Eagle and Bonelli's.
But photographs have appeared recently of the White-tailed Eagle !
 This huge 'sea-eagle' or 'fishing-eagle' perches on the ground for hours next to the tiny water-bodies in the park. Remember, this is hundreds of kilometers from a large river or lake !

From what I know, all the species of vulture from India (except the Lammergeier), have been observed here. So tick marks for the Red-headed, Eurasian and Himalayan Griffon, White-backed, Long-billed, Egyptian and Cinereous Vultures.
Over the rubbish tip at Sujangarh nearby, we thought that the larger vultures were mainly Long-billed, but later analysis of some  record photos I took, suggest that this could be a Eurasian Griffon ...

The hawks are represented by the Eurasian Sparrowhawk and the Shikra.

The erstwhile rulers of the Rajputana State of Bikaner built this hunting lodge ( now mostly derelict) here overlooking the grasslands to hunt Black-buck and Chinkara in years gone by. Now it is a sanctuary and a raptor paradise....

And not only raptors, this special place also harbours other rarities.
Sociable Lapwing, Stoliczka's Bushchat, Yellow-eyed Pigeon, Spotted Creeper among others.

Hope to see you again when we talk of those creatures next time ...

Bhainsrorgarh - Part 2

We are being very well fed-and-watered by our hosts Rajvir and Hemendra of Bhainsrorgarh, Rajasthan at a private location outside the forest.

 The picnic is a rare chance for the younger generation (represented today by 7 cousins) to experience a 'camp' meal. Everyone pitches in. Essential cooking ingredients have been brought from the Fort. This includes the mutton and flour for the 'battis'. The menfolk are in charge of the 'maas' which is cooked in a large handi over a open wood fire. The ladies are adept at creating 'katoris' from the tender leaves of the 'Flame of the forest' (Butea monosperma), woven into cup-like shape with pliant stems. At this time of the year the fresh leaves have a soft furry texture.

Soon the meat is simmering away and the rest of the prep is left to the staff. 

We drive a few miles into the forest to Lohariya-ka-talab. A covey of Jungle Bush-Quail cross the track  

between our vehicles. It is now late in the morning so our chances of seeing any game is slender. These forests once sported plentiful cheetal, sambhar, wild boar, sloth bear and leopard.

  

As we approach the lake through the surrounding forest, a pair of courting White-eyed Buzzards are dwarfed by a pair of Crested Serpent Eagles in flight. Another large Eagle makes cameo appearances through the densely-packed mature trees of Tendu, Arjun, Churail, Dhokra, Siris and others. This individual has not taken kindly to our intrusion. And we soon discover why. It appears to have built not one but two nests in a stately Arjun tree. We are careful to allow it some space. I manage a hurried record shot of this handsome creature.

Changeable Hawk Eagle

This is not a commonly encountered raptor in Rajasthan. One would possibly chance upon it in a mature forest - but several visits to Rajasthan's Sanctuaries has not thrown up even a single record for me over the years, so this is special.

The forest abutting the lake is green and vibrant, almost like a mirage in this harsh, sun-bleached rocky terrain. It is now almost noon and the heat is enervating. Yet the water and the leafy trees have attracted a multitude of birds. The forest rings with their calls and they are quite unaffected by our presence in their midst. 

Male Paradise Flycatchers, both adults (above - white) and juveniles (below - rufous) dodge and twist through the thick foliage. They are vying for the attentions of the few females in this part of the forest.

Trusting White-browed Fantail Flycatchers,Common Woodshrikes and Oriental White-eyes are mixed in with comparatively wary Golden Orioles.  White-bellied Drongos make graceful sallies after insects. I had recently seen web-posted pictures from a nearby forest of Chestnut-tailed Starlings so am not surprised to see a small group of them here, high up in the trees. Another unusual bird to find in Rajasthan.

 Now that the senses have tuned out the commoner birds like the Petronias, the different Mynas, Silverbills and others, I become more aware of a relatively friendly, yet unfamiliar flycatcher. 

This individual keeps peering at us shyly from close quarters, and I am able to get good views, but no bells are ringing ! So, the best is to take a few shots and see if one can ID it later ...

Spotted Flycatcher (... ID corrected later to Asian Brown Flycatcher)

This is a lifer for me.  The Spotted Flycatcher is usually sighted during Passage Migration in March and October - and most of the photographs are from Kutchh (Gujarat) ; so this is an unusual record to find one here in the peak of summer (21st May 2012).

This oasis at the parched edge of the forest has naturally drawn the kingfishers. 

Pied Kingfisher

Common Kingfisher

Happy has picked up the calls of Crested Tree Swift. He points out their distinctive flying profiles above, but I am only able to catch glimpses through the binoculars - a lifer for me, but dissatisfying since they don't actually perch today.

Oriental White-eye on Flame of the Forest

The lake is full of amphibians. Both times that thunder from a dust-storm rumbled in the distance, with an answering chorus of calls, scores of bullfrogs would suddenly appear on the surface.

And if you walked down to the lake's edge, the smaller frogs would jump anxiously at the last instant from almost underfoot and go skittering away into the water. 

The lake itself shrinks to a fraction of its size in the summer. The vegetation and feed in and around the water have drawn the usual suspects including River Terns, Egrets, Ibis ( White and Black), Storks ( Painted and Open-billed), and Lesser Whistling Ducks. Also a pair of Sarus Cranes - always a lovely sight.

We now have word from Camp that lunch is ready. So we move away from this enchanted forest, leaving the languorous langurs to their daydreams ...

A mongoose scurries away after a furtive drink of water. The lake and forest are left to their rightful denizens.

sahdevsingh2004@yahoo.co.in

Summer Birding in Ranthambhore National Park

This is a brief report on a 2 day trip to Ranthambhore National Park in the middle of May 2010.

We drive down from Jaipur to the Sawai Madhopur Lodge (SML or Taj Lodge) in the afternoon of 11th May, 2010. SML is the old Hunting Lodge of the Jaipur Royal Family. My wife, two teenaged boys and I are happy to accept the invitation of RKVS and KrDS and spend two nights in this wonderful property.

We are welcomed by several Golden Orioles that fly over the lawns to and from the many tall Neem, Ashok and Ardu trees. As soon as we are shown our rooms the luxurious accommodation lulls the senses but I am determined to explore the 12 acres of gardens, orchard, and walkways before the sun sets. I am accompanied by the Deputy GM in our little ramble. We soon come across most of the usual suspects, and it is clear that several birds are nesting here. A heartening sign.

While we are observing a flock of Oriental White-eyes in the Tamarind trees, we disturb a raptor perched behind us. The light is still good but the Falcon(?) flies low and fast directly away from us, and I am only able to make an ‘educated guess’ based on its size, wing shape and general colouring – probably a Laggar Falcon or Peregrine Falcon.


12th May morning drive in Ranthambhore Park Route 1 –
Our first Game Drive is in a Gypsy and we are allotted Route 1. Other than the four of us, our companions in the vehicle are a very young couple from SE Asia, and the mandatory Naturalist and Driver. Route 1 is reputedly one of the driest Routes in the Park and I have inwardly resigned myself to the thought that wildlife would be thin here at this time of the year in the hot weather. In any case the 5 different Routes are supposed to be allocated at random to the various Gypsies and Canters that ply in the Park. It appears Routes 2 and 3 that also skirt the large lakes have been throwing up most of the tiger sightings these days. Our Naturalist appears somewhat puzzled when I say that I am quite interested in birds and other attractions of the Forest, and that we are not just here for the Tigers.

We enter the Forest through a Gate just beside an ancient Banyan Tree. The spread of the aerial roots and the span of this specimen is enormous and I am reminded of the giant Banyan near Jogi Mahal in another area of the Park. It is just past sunrise and even though most well-wooded areas are still cool, the heat is rising. The terrain is indeed dry. The natural waterholes are dust bowls. All the Dhok trees are leafless. However, old natural watercourses are defined by green Tendu, and the occasional stately Mahuwa and Gurjan. Surprisingly White-bellied Drongos are more common than Black Drongos. We count up to 10 individuals on and around one tree. Oriental Magpie Robins are displaying. Meanwhile we start to come across small groups of Sambhar and Cheetal. Our young couple have been very quiet, only communicating with each other in barely audible whispers thus far. However, when we stop to observe a pair of Spotted Owlets in their nest in the hollow of a dry tree, the girl suddenly springs to life, clutching excitedly at her companion and cooing in delight. In response, since we are quite close to the Owlets, typically one of the birds starts to bob and weave its head, sending her into further paroxysms of delight.

I have several target species for this trip, and since we are in fairly good forest I ask whether we can hope to see the White-naped Woodpecker and the Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker. The Naturalist says yes, but that they are fairly rare. We see several Black-rumped Flamebacks and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, but not any of the others. One other target bird soon appears. As we climb a steep track with a rocky ravine to one side, there is a rustle in the undergrowth, and out steps a female Painted Spurfowl. She is soon followed by the striking male as they pick their way though the boulders and bushes.

When we stop for a while with the other vehicles at the terminal point by a small waterbody, I realize with a shock that this is the only water we have seen in the past hour in all of the forest. A solitary Wild Boar is in close proximity to a solitary Eurasian Thick-knee. There is the usual assortment of common birds near the water, but also a pair of Crested Buntings and a few Chestnut-shouldered Petronias. We wait for several minutes in the Gypsy close by since this is one of the beats of a resident Tigress and her two cubs. There are no alarm calls in the vicinity so we know it is an unlikely stakeout. But our patience is rewarded when two Paradise Flycatchers soon appear in the trees. A juvenile with long brown streamers and an adult with white streamers. Even though we see several more of the species later, it is this first sighting which is most enchanting. Both birds are calling and in song. The adult is then chased off by a Black Drongo, both birds involved in a high-speed aerial pursuit, dodging through the trees with their black and white tails fluttering gracefully. This is also a likely spot for the Indian Pitta, but they only migrate in here some weeks later.

As we wind our way back, the sun is higher and the first of the raptors have started riding the thermals. We observer a circling Red-headed Vulture and several Oriental Honey-Buzzards. A fruiting Banyan has attracted several Plum-headed and a few Alexandrine Parakeets. We stop in an open area beside a dry waterhole to look at some Yellow-wattled Lapwings. While I am scanning the scrub trying to find an Indian Courser, there is a commotion next to the vehicle and a Monitor Lizard wriggles off at speed in a cloud of dust.

When we are back on the main road (that leads to the Temple and Fort), we stop to scan the rocky cliffs. Though there are several nests on high ledges (easily located by the whitish streaks from droppings down the cliff face), only two are occupied by Long-billed Vultures.

Back at the Lodge, rejuvenated after an excellent breakfast, I make a leisurely survey of the extensive grounds. In the area behind the Swimming Pool with scattered bamboo clumps and several closely packed trees I spot a male Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher and marvel at its splendid blue and orange plumage.

12th May afternoon drive in Kundhal –
In the afternoon we are booked to visit the Kundhal area. This is in the non-core area of the Park and I am looking forward to my first trip here. Wisely the wife and boys opt out as the sun is fierce. Just as we are leaving in the Gypsy I am joined by one of the young Staff at the Lodge.

As it happens Kundhal is adjacent to the area we explored in the morning on Route 1. We connect with a few Chinkara in the dry scrub very close to the entrance. Soon we are into a flat grassland. There is a waterbody here which is replenished daily from a nearby borewell. Naturally in the middle of the afternoon this scarce source of water is a magnet for animals and birds. We approach ‘Kundhal Kui’ and park quietly a short distance away. We are under a mostly bare Flame of the Forest tree from which a couple of Yellow-footed Green Pigeons explode away. I look up at the scraggly leafed branches and fail to see any more of these birds until they actually take wing. We count 10 birds and they were amazingly camouflaged in this impossibly inadequate cover. There are the usual Vultures and Buzzards squatting where the Sambhar and Cheetal have churned up the margins of the pond into a muddy quagmire. Crested Buntings and Ashy-crowned Sparrow-larks hunt through the damp areas. I am able to observe a pair of Sirkeer Malkoha for several minutes. One individual lowers his head, extends the tail low to the ground and scampers forward with quick steps. He then raises his head straight up with bill vertical and makes a curious sound. Possible breeding behaviour I wonder ?

We move through the grassland and scrub. I keep a sharp lookout for Quails and Button-Quails. There are several species of both reported here. Ranthambhore is also one of the few places that one can see all three of our Francolins – Grey, Black and Painted. No luck with any of the rare species today, and even the Grey Francolin are thin on the ground. I think chances would be better after the Monsoon breaks.

As we move forward the first of a series of steeply canted rock strata force our Driver to engage 4WD. Now the leafy trees are restricted to the lower valleys, while the rocky hills are clothed sparsely with Thor and Salai. We come across fresh Tiger spoor, also of young ones. Possibly the resident family of Route 1 is passing through here. The sun reflecting off the rocks is blinding and the heat is dessicating.

On our way back we stop again at Kundhal Kui. Soon a solitary jackal that we had seen earlier several kms away approaches for a drink. It is quite wary. It takes an age to finally get to the water. Then it does not want to get its feet muddy. It circumvents the pond to find a dry approach to the water. Then the water is too muddy in that place so it goes around again. Finally, he has to get all muddy and wet and manages to take a sip. But something startles it and he bounds off. However his thirst is too overpowering and he starts the whole process again…

Back at the Lodge the family is relaxing in the Pool. Later I browse through the Library while the boys play snooker next door. There are several books on Birds, Natural History and Shikar – many of which are now out of print. I could spend hours here, but dinner is served and the hot nans are beckoning.

13th May morning drive in Balas –
The family is keen on Tiger spotting so they are booked on a Gypsy in the Park. On the recommendation of the Lodge Staff I am at the Park Office at 4:45 am to try and book Route 3. They are allotted Route 2.

My early morning drive separately is to Balas, again in the non-core area of the Park further South. My solitary companion in the Gypsy today is Mohan Singh. Over the course of the next few hours in our conversations we are able to solve all the problems of the Park and safeguard all the Tigers ! He begins by telling me the story of Laxmi, the female leopard of Balas.

Laxmi was abandoned by her mother because she had a limp as a cub. She was brought up by the Foresters and later released in the wild. However, it appears she is unable to hunt even though the leg is now fully healed. She keeps coming back to the Forest Hut and to another point in the Reserve mainly to be fed, and sometimes with wounds when she gets roughed up in the Forest. Would I like to see her ? Yes. We are in luck because she has just come in. Anytime you look at a young wild feline from close is fantastic. She lolls about in the damp earth unconcerned, her coat shining in the soft light of dawn, those unblinking leopard eyes watching you from a few feet away.

We drive around the foothills and scrub. There are several Nilgai here. Then the sudden deep alarm call of a Sambhar. All the animals are alert now. In the dusty track Mohan points out the drag mark of an animal – there is a single deep and narrow rut where the antler would have trailed. Close by we also pick up the spoor of a Tiger. But the Park Rules state that you cannot get off the vehicle, so we reluctantly move on, even though it appears that a Tiger had just made a kill close by or else had returned to feed.

One of the special features of Balas is the escarpment of the Aravallis that forms an almost unbroken line as you drive along the edge of the Park. We have to find a narrow track that allows us to climb a steep gradient and access the crest of the escarpment. This is several hundreds of feet above the plains and the views are sweeping towards the West and South. In the far distance flows the river Chambal, with the odd hill of the Vindhyan Range rising from the lowlands. We observe several Grey-breasted Prinias on the way up. A solitary Indian Bushlark walks about on the open sandy ground.

The terrain here is quite different from the two areas we visited yesterday. For one we are much higher. The plateau is broken up with very deep ravines. At the terminal point again the views are breathtaking. The track ends abruptly at the edge of a chasm. Tall cliffs tower across the yawning gap. In the deep gorge down below huge boulders mark the ancient course of the water run-off from the mountains. Here tall trees and hidden pools provide shade and water for animals to lie up. I observe several Red-rumped Swallows flitting overhead. Mohan identifies the fresh scat I point out to him as that of a Sloth Bear. There are several caves here I notice.

When I meet up with the family back at the Lodge they are happy to have seen a Tigress on Route 2. My younger son is the hero of the trip because he located the Tigress, and none of the other vehicles saw the animal. I ask him how it happened. In a matter-of-fact tone he says -
“Oh, the Gypsy had stopped because of all the alarm calls. Then I saw three Cheetal with their tails up all looking towards something. I followed their gaze and saw the Tiger.”
That’s when all hell broke loose in the Gypsy.
They also saw several waders and other birds at the Lake. Oh, and there were 8-10 Painted Spurfowl in many of the ravines, they were just so common! I am happy for them.

And so we must say Goodbye to Ranthambhore for the moment. True to form I miss a turn on the way back to Jaipur and we take a half-hour longer getting back.

The Mystery Raptor

While going through my Birding Diary from the past few months I came across my notes about the Mystery Raptor, and I thought I would post these in the hope that some reader may be able to help identify the bird.
We were on a overnight condolence visit to the Fort of C in South - West Rajasthan, and so Birding was not quite on the agenda, and none of us were carrying binoculars or cameras.
It was late June 2009 and the weather was hot and humid, with the monsoon yet to arrive.
The village around the Fort of C is small, and there is scattered cultivation and a few pockets of trees(mainly Khejri) in typical sandy terrain. The Western horizon is broken up by low and isolated hills. The Fort itself is fairly extensive, but with several sections uninhabited for years.

H had mentioned that he had observed a smallish raptor on most evenings well after sunset, flying around the walls of the Fort, and low over the surrounding village huts and khejri trees.
Just as we were discussing these crepescular habits , the mystery raptor made an appearance at 7:30 pm. With the light fading fast, the raptor started to make quick circles of the Fort. We could clearly observe the narrow pointed wings, longish tail narrowing towards the end,overall dark appearance, powerful neck and head on fairly slim body, flight very quick with continuous flapping of wings, pigeon sized.
It was while I was observing, silhouetted against the Western sky, the erratic flight of a pipistrelle (small bat), another larger object struck it ! The raptor had his prey. We all clearly heard the soft sound of impact, even from over 70 yards.
The raptor (with prey held firmly in its talons) flapped hard to maintain height. It tried to alight on the tops of nearby trees, but was foiled by roosting peafowl already perched on each of them.
As it flew around the Fort and over, we scrambled up to the ramparts, and then to the highest terrace, but lost sight of the raptor.
Much discussion followed about the possible identity and to the possible nesting / roosting sites of the raptor, but it was clear that we did not have enough information to confirm the ID of the species.
I had to leave the next morning.
Luckily the raptor made a rare appearance at 9 am. However, this was just a swift and single flypast almost directly overhead , allowing only a fleeting glimpse of the profile and underparts. H commented that the underbody and underwing were fairly pale with dark markings. I was quite sure I got a flash of yellow on the side of the face - possible eye pouch, bill colour? Upperparts appeared grey.
Same swift flapping flight, narrow pointed wings and long narrow tail.

Later ....
We have had reports and better sightings from C of possibly the same raptor, and we do have a possible ID. If you can pick up on any of the information above and let me have your feedback as to the ID, I would look forward to hearing from you at sahdevsingh2004@yahoo.co.in