It is late May 2012 and Rajasthan is baking.
In the dry summer months, the Chambal still has plenty of water making it one of the few perennial rivers of Rajsthan. Of course now, there are a succession of dams which have created these large lakes swamping the original boulder-strewn watercourse. Fish are plentiful, though the apex predator the Gharial is now relatively rare, most having moved further downstream. Yet, Mugger Crocodiles abound.
By daybreak, many Muggers are already active. One of the largest is patrolling the deep waters just below the Fort as we gaze down the cliff. Appendages held motionless by its sides, the powerful tail propels it forward effortlessly.
Anxious to get our lines wet, we clamber down the bridle-path to the Chhatris and the reedy shore below the Fort. Quickly, several baits are cast from a narrow stony ledge below the cliff. Small fish follow the lures being reeled in, but no bites. From previous fishing expeditions on the Chambal Happy and I know that it is a bit of a hit-and-miss affair. We have had wonderful days when mahseer, silund, lanchi and other fish have been caught easily, and others when nothing happens. Looks like the first morning will be the latter. As the sun gets hotter, the youngsters' enthusiasm wanes. Just then someone notices a large mugger moving away from us, not 30 yards away ! It had been lying submerged in the dense reed-beds even closer to us at the water's edge all this while. That prompts a hasty retreat for the moment. I can hear someone recounting stories of how a mugger can launch itself out of the water to attack prey.
The movement of the Mugger has alerted a pair of Great Thick-knees. They are obviously protectings their eggs laid on the rocky ground. A few perfunctory raising of the wings in display and a couple of alarm calls are all that are merited in this case.
Great Thick-knee
Later in the morning we have a chance to go boating on the river. The boat itself is a large, flat-bottomed affair made from sturdy timber. A couple of oarsmen have to row with much effort as we are fully laden and the craft itself is heavy. Our route skirts the true left bank of the river and then around 'The Island'.
We are in Bhainsrorgarh, a short distance upstream of Kota along the Chambal river in Rajasthan. Rajvir and Hemendra have invited us for the weekend, and the boys have brought their fishing rods.
Bhainsrorgarh
In the dry summer months, the Chambal still has plenty of water making it one of the few perennial rivers of Rajsthan. Of course now, there are a succession of dams which have created these large lakes swamping the original boulder-strewn watercourse. Fish are plentiful, though the apex predator the Gharial is now relatively rare, most having moved further downstream. Yet, Mugger Crocodiles abound.
By daybreak, many Muggers are already active. One of the largest is patrolling the deep waters just below the Fort as we gaze down the cliff. Appendages held motionless by its sides, the powerful tail propels it forward effortlessly.
A group of Small Minivets listens attentively ...
Small Minivet
The movement of the Mugger has alerted a pair of Great Thick-knees. They are obviously protectings their eggs laid on the rocky ground. A few perfunctory raising of the wings in display and a couple of alarm calls are all that are merited in this case.
Later in the morning we have a chance to go boating on the river. The boat itself is a large, flat-bottomed affair made from sturdy timber. A couple of oarsmen have to row with much effort as we are fully laden and the craft itself is heavy. Our route skirts the true left bank of the river and then around 'The Island'.
The 'Island'.
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As we glide closer and then slowly around, my appetite is whetted for another visit, perhaps even getting off the boat to explore it more fully. Because there are just so many birds here - and there is a continuous chorus of calls.
And since it is summer, many species of birds are also nesting here. We rest the oars and spend a few minutes motionless, only yards away from a pair of courting Stork-billed Kingfishers on a tree overhanging the water. Paradise Flycatchers and Golden Orioles flash through the dense foliage. Large Cuckoo-Shrikes vie with Blue-cheeked Bee-Eaters for favoured perches. Amongst the relatively common Herons and Egrets, there are a few Little Herons and Indian Darters.
The tallest trees on the island feature roosting White-backed Vultures.
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Of all the Vulture species, in my experience, this is the one which has been decimated the most over the past few decades, pushing it to the brink of extinction. But that is another story; we are just glad to see good numbers of them here.
In the evening, a dust storm is brewing in the West.
Shafts of sunlight pierce the angry clouds, reflecting off the placid surface of the Brahminy river, which joins the Chambal just below the Fort. In this tricky light, an unfamiliar dragonfly perches on the tangly creeper just below the parapet pictured above. Excitedly I lean well over the low wall to click some pictures of this small yet brilliant insect just a few yards below me. Later we identify this dragonfly as Rhyothemis triangularis - and from what I have been told by some experts it is fairly rare in India - especially in Rajasthan
Rhyothemis triangularis
Tomorrow our hosts have planned an elaborate picnic at 'Lohariya-ka-talab'. From an earlier visit many years before in winter I well remember this wonderful spot by a lake deep inside the forest, so we are all excited. ( this merits another blog posting by itself, so that will follow soon..)
For the moment we just explore the Fort.
Disused stables happily retain their feudal charm.
A view from the balcony of one of the Guest Rooms across the river to the green orchards and the rolling dustplains beyond ....
This is the outer wall which encircles the Fort and the village. Several kms in length it is as many feet thick as it is metres tall.
Till the next post then....
