Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Ghost Forts of Rajasthan

4th September 2011.
It has been a cracker of a monsoon in Rajasthan this year. As we drive towards the Sariska Sanctuary from Jaipur, intermittent sprinkles and showers shadow us through the day. Birding is part of the plan and we also hope to be able to explore the sanctuary from the Tehla entrance.
Very quickly it is apparent that it was a good idea to have brought the jeep instead of the car. The roads are in shambles. Pools of water have collected in every sized pot-hole, rivulets are running on either side, and numerous diversions for bridge repairs force you to negotiate muddy 'kutcha' tracks.

We pass by the 'chhatris' at Dhaula ....


There are several vehicles on the road even in this weather. Small bands of devotees on foot now start appearing, all headed in the same direction as us. We stop to observe a perched White-eyed Buzzard. Not quite an adult because he is missing the 'white-eyes', but the ID is confirmed by the characteristic white patch on the nape. We see several flocks of Rosy Starlings, early arrivals for the winter. Many males are in almost full breeding plumage.

Soon we are driving past the first of the 'ghost forts'. Pratapgarh. Perched imposingly on steep rocky crags....

Another view of Pratapgarh ...

And then on to Ajabgarh ...

In the valley below, a dammed lake holds an assortment of waders and ducks.

Comb ducks, Grey herons and Egrets...

Not far from here is an actual ghost town. This is Bhangarh. I am not sure of the historical provenance of the tales surrounding Bhangarh. They tell of a beautiful princess and a tantric mystic, of a curse, of wars and sudden abandonment of the town. Many architectural details still remain, and several temples and chhatris are dotted about the hills here - and if you visit you would be reminded of Fatehpur Sikri near Agra. Be warned though, all the locals steer clear of this place after dark.

Now we are skirting the edge of the Sanctuary and the hills are stunning. A rocky saddle in the hills draws your attention to a plunging waterfall ...


As we near Tehla we are accosted by people manning temporary shelters at intervals of a few hundred metres. Every vehicle is stopped and the occupants offerred refreshments. This makes for very slow progress indeed. Now the devotees are more numerous and their enthusiasm is palpable as they near their destination - the temple of Narayani Mata at the edge of the Santuary. This is a centuries old 'Sati' temple, a place of great religious significance for the locals.

The fort of Tehla 

We must now modify our plans because it is impossible to proceed any further in this direction. One option is to try and find an alternative route to the fort of Kankwari inside the Park. This is reputed to be very picturesque. Located in the middle of the forest it overlooks a small lake. Aurangzeb, the Mughal Emperor had his brother Dara Shikoh imprisoned here.

However, we are unable to enter the Sanctuary at this time because it is officially closed for the monsoon months - a new rule ever since the tigers were translocated here from Ranthambhore National Park.

Nevermind. We are driving through interesting terrain. We decide to stop and explore any area that catches the eye, and make our way slowly back to Jaipur.
During the many brief halts we get to see a fair sprinkling of birdlife - the more interesting being Black Francolins, Barred Button-Quails, Indian Bushlarks, Ashy-crowned Sparrowlarks and Pied Cuckoos...

Many bushes are festooned with the incredible flowers of the Glory Lily ...

A White-breasted Waterhen is tending to her three chicks off a roadside pond...

The Fort of Achrol from the Delhi-Jaipur highway ...

And so, back to Jaipur. Admittedly the birding was rather thin but we were fortunate to experience these offbeat places in wonderful weather.
Till next time, then ...