Friday, November 19, 2010

Fishing in the Desert

We are five anglers in an old SUV heading out South from Jaipur. It is a March morning some years ago, and our destination is a Dam on a major seasonal river a few hours away. The trip has been cobbled together at short notice and our hosts are only indirectly known to us, but they are local bigwigs and we hope we can depend on them to get us to the right spots on the river and host us for the night. None of us have actually fished in this area before so our chances are uncertain. Which is actually one way of doing such a trip, and we end up having great fun !

Our target naturally is the Mahseer (Barbus tor), but there should also be Silund (Silonia silondia) and Sowal (Ophicephalus striatus) – all of which do take artificial lures likes spinners, spoons and plugs. These rivers also harbour enormous Goonch (Bagarius bagarius) down in the bottom of deep pools. Tales of fish caught over the years are traded as the beer starts flowing by 11 am. D christens me ‘Kalbeliya’ for the trip, I presume for the printed black shirt I have on. I dare not complain. D is the biggest of our Party. He is a very big gentleman and surely double my size and can whack the golf ball 300 yards with a 3-iron. My miseries are compounded when cigarette smoke fills the car – I don’t smoke but all my companions do. Traffic is fairly heavy and we make slow progress. We are stuck behind a truck which sports a colourful painting of a buxom young lady, and printed beneath is ‘ZALIM JATNI’. This prompts someone to jump out at the next village to buy a CD with Rajasthani folk songs. One particular ditty with a decidedly bucolic and bawdy flavour is the favorite. Now we are really in the groove.

We arrive at the RV point and are met by our hosts, two brothers. Excellent, they have lunch packed in a big tiffin box and are keen to move straight on to the river. The younger brother is driving their car, a brand new sedan made by the Americans in India. We follow in his wake as he blasts through the traffic in town. Soon the tarmac disappears and we are on a rough track as we approach the river. Stones and mud are effortlessly negotiated at high speed by our Rally Driver, and we are soon left far behind. Anyway we can’t get lost since the track leads straight down to the water. We cross the river over an old stone bridge built on arches which is often fully submerged in the monsoon.

Our hosts have commandeered a boat and we tuck into lunch sitting by the rough jetty. Fiery mutton curry and rotis. Additional hot green chillies for some. A group of Cormorants are beating for fish in the shallows. They flap their wings splashing the surface and draw a semi-circle closer to the bank. Small fish thus herded are then quickly scooped up when the circle closes.

We start to get our fishing tackle together. Light rods and spinning reels. The boatman has to be cajoled to get going - I suspect he wants more money. Once we are actually cruising over the placid surface we realize that the banks are now moving further and further away as the river fans out. The dammed river has created a huge lake and all around is water. Ducks are common, but the waders on the sandbanks are already too far away to identify.

We start casting from the boat, careful not to impale the spectators with the steel barbs on the lures. No luck. I change lures. We cut the outboard motor, thinking this could be disturbing fish around the boat. Still not a single bite. One rod tries running the lure deep. We try trolling as the boat is rowed forward.

Our Rally Driver has been observing all this quite patiently. He now decides to break out a fresh bottle of whisky ! Steel mugs are passed around. Our boatman has a resigned look on his face.

As we drift closer to the dam, which is still several miles away, we pass the first of the fishing boats. These are similar to our own, flat-bottomed and sturdy. The fishing teams are all Bengalis. Loincloths and vests are standard attire. Our hosts hail one over. They approach reluctantly. The Fishing Contractor’s name is bandied about and a few fish are demanded to be handed over. Quite clearly fish is on the menu for dinner and our hosts appear not to have any faith in our ability to catch any today. Soon we have a few choice specimens drawn forth from the hold of the fishing boat and deposited flapping into ours. But the Captain of the unlucky boat wants some assurance that he will be compensated. So an IOU is signed on the wrapper of a Bidi packet.

As we return to the bridge we notice that several of the stone piers have youngsters perched on ledges jutting over the water. They all have lines dangling using some kind of bait on single hooks. On the bank an Army officer is calmly pulling out fish after fish – he already has a sackful of small ones !

What have we been doing wrong ? The sun is well set and light is fading as we decide to now fish along the bank. Suddenly my line is pulled heavily and I am on. I am careful playing the fish as I only have a 8 lbs. line. But after the first pull the fish allows itself to be reeled in relatively tamely. I know I do not have either a mahseer or silund as they are fierce fighters. But as soon as I drag it up the sandbank below the bridge, the length of the fish prompts someone watching to call out in the vernacular – that’s a big one! Music to any angler’s ears. It is a 12 lbs. Lanchi (Wallagonia attu) – almost 41/2 ft. long. This is the fresh-water shark. I am very careful removing the lure which it has swallowed deep. It has a huge flat mouth which is armed with small, thin razor-sharp teeth.

Soon the other rods are also into fish but only more Lanchi for today. I try to false-hook one of the bamn (eels) which curl through and around the vegetation in the shallows just off the bank but without success. We have fish, and so partly damaged egos now placated we decide to call it a day.

Our hosts are gracious in putting two rooms at their Haveli at our disposal. A bacchanalian evening is enlivened with many jokes and much conviviality. The freshly caught fish and the pirated fish are prepared into delicious dry kebabs and a passable curry. Just before dinner the lights in the village go out. It is a power cut. We may have to eat in the dark and then sleep without fans. Not when you have the Rally Driver around ! And he owns this place. When a few phone calls do not elicit the proper response from the Power Sub-Station, he is off again in the car muttering dire warnings. The lights come right back on in a few minutes.

Of course we had adjourned at night resolving to get to the river at dawn. No chance of that. Morning blues after all the fun the night before is inevitable. We are only able to get to another spot on the river downstream of the dam by 9 am. This area is quite interesting. Many pools line the bank of the original rivercourse. The limpid shallow water is clear enough for us to see fish swimming lazily. Reeds and bull rushes line the islands. A kingfisher flashes past to a perch overlooking the water. It is a Stork-billed Kingfisher, one of the rarest of our Kingfishers from these parts. A Bronze-winged Jacana steps gingerly over lily pads always staying close to cover.
We try a few casts here but there are too many places to get the lure snagged and the fish are not biting. So we head back to our spot near the Bridge from the evening before and manage to catch a few more Lanchi. Then it is time to bid our hosts goodbye and we head back to Jaipur

Friday, November 12, 2010

Rambles around Amer



It is the pre-dawn hour in early September 2010 and I am headed out towards the Amer hills north of Jaipur. This year the Monsoon has gathered pace in August and is forecast to continue bringing rain through much of this month. As I drive past the Amer Fort I am stunned by the spectacle of low rolling clouds obscuring the higher ramparts of this magnificent structure. Through the open windows faint tendrils of moisture laden mist waft past my face. The first bird sounds of the morning appear curiously muffled.

I am meeting up with Udaijit at his Dera Amer, and he has also invited Madhav, who is a keen Naturalist. I have not met Madhav , even though we have both visited here before separately. Soon I have turned onto the rough track that winds its way to the Camp. The light is already stronger and bird activity is picking up. Udaijit has often seen a Dusky Eagle Owl on its favourite perch just off the track, and even though I remember to scan all these likely roosts and perches today, I have yet to add this species to my personal list.

We meet at the Camp and introductions are made over a cup of Masala Chai. We are sitting by the Elephant Polo grounds and I pick out the movement of a small bird beyond the main Gate on a Babool tree. It is whistling a dulcet sounding half-familiar call. Quickly I check it with the binoculars. The bright yellow, black and white plumage and size could only mean one of the Ioras. We walk across briskly, Madhav is armed with a sophisticated lens on his Canon. But the Iora is hidden from view in the fresh greenery. At that moment an adult Oriental Honey Buzzard flies closer low to the ground, and we notice another much smaller juvenile. Now the Ioras shows themselves, it is a pair, and they are gathering nest material. From the white edges to tail feathers we know these are the Marshall’s Iora, a rare endemic. What a great start to the day !

My companions are enthusiastic and we feed off each others energy. Udaijit is still recovering from a horrific road accident and I think this is one of his first outings since. Despite our protestations to allow one of us take the wheel, he insists on driving his Jeep. Just outside the property we notice a large Cuckoo perched on the low wire fencing. Madhav gets some good photos and only later are we able to identify it properly as a juvenile Eurasian Cuckoo. There are a pair of Long-tailed Shrikes close by, and I do know that this species is often the foster parents of the Cuckoo.

Within a few minutes we enter the Nahargarh Bio-diversity Forest, as I believe it is now called. We have been here before, but none of us can believe the transformation brought about by the copious rains. Where there were sun-scorched acacias and other hardy dry deciduous trees with their gnarled trunks and sparse thorny foliage, now the fresh branches thrust upwards clothed in sparkling green. Dusty boulders are now hidden by lush wavy grasses, many topped with small yellow flowers on stems. Several bushes have these incredibly beautiful flowers, the scarlet and yellow petals curling upwards like twisting flames, and the horizontal stamens shooting outwards like the points of a star. We later identify these as Gloriosa superba or Glory Lily, and apparently they are deadly poisonous. I’m glad we didn’t pluck any since even handling the flower can cause severe skin irritation I later read.

Just inside the forest, as the path twists past a saddle between two hills there is a dumping ground for bones from the Animal Rescue Centre. From previous visits I know this is a good birding spot if you can stand the smell. We do see several Pied Cuckoos, Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters and European Rollers amongst other common birds. My best sighting here has been that of a Red-tailed Wheatear in April 2009. In the distance one can occasionally hear the Centre’s Tigers and Lions (rescued from the Circus after legislation banned animal performances). There is also a Tigon, he is huge with paws as big as dinner plates. And the bones at this dump are not from animals at the Centre dying of old age, they are from the leftover meals brought daily for the big cats !


As we wind our way deeper into the forest we come across several natural springs, the fresh water bubbling forth from cracks between lichen-covered rocks. This once common sight in the hills had all but disappeared for the past few near-drought years. As we climb a steep hill an unfamiliar looking raptor is disturbed and it flies off to a perch further away. We are careful not to get out of the Jeep and it allows us to approach closer. It is a Buzzard for sure, but all of us think it is somewhat large for a White-eyed Buzzard (which we have all seen before). Later checking of the photos, the dark gular stripe on whitish throat and the diagnostic white eyes confirm the sighting as the WEB. Another good bird is identified as the Black-headed Cuckoo-Shrike. It is quite shy and just does not allow one to get inside its comfort zone for close observation.

After a couple of wrong turns we finally find the right approach track to Aodhi Ram Sagar. Here a series of seasonal rivulets debouch down from the surrounding Amer and Nahargarh hills into small lakes leading towards this superbly located Shooting Lodge. There are also two old Shooting Towers made for the Jaipur Royalty. These command a wide field of fire, now of course the views are fabulous. I can almost picture in my mind’s eye how the game would have been driven down by beaters to the waiting guns. The main Lodge overlooks a small lake. Perhaps Royal Ladies would have had occasion to shoot downwards (from the relative safety of the high turret) at a Tiger or a Leopard drinking water in the late evening many decades ago ? While the gentlemen would have hunted on elephant back further afield armed with heavy bore rifles?

We have seen excellent birds here including the rare endemic White-naped Tit, White-capped Buntings and Paradise Flycatchers. This is also a good area for several raptors. Tawny Eagles apparently breed in the crags above. We have observed Steppe Eagles (5 individuals together once). Long-legged Buzzards are occasionally seen. Last year there was a juvenile Eurasian Griffon that was severely dehydrated and had to be rescued, cared for and later released in the wild. I have also seen Common Kestrel, and once the absolutely fantastic Eurasian Hobby. Surprisingly this was at about 11 am, unusual for the Hobby because they are largely crepescular. This little Falcon gave us a spectacular flight display of high speed stoops, driven with quick wing beats and diving with his long narrow wings folded back and sudden jinking turns.

We have now been rambling for hours and my stomach is rumbling. So when Udaijit suggests we head back to the Camp for breakfast, we concur quickly. Particularly since from previous visits I know that meals at the Camp are always splendid. Soon we are tucking into platters piled with two-eggs sunny-side-up, crispy bacon rashers, juicy sausages, baked beans and oven-fresh bread. All washed down with freshly brewed coffee. Ah ! This is the kind of birding I like.

Madhav shows us some of the photos he has taken today, and many are stunning. The light too has been friendly and many of the compositions are worth framing I am sure.

Udaijit tells us of the extraordinary incident involving 4 Bar-headed Geese making a surprise touchdown in the middle of the floodlit Elephant Polo ground on a winter’s night. Luckily this was between Chukkers (else they would have been trampled by the eles)! He describes them as appearing somewhat disoriented but not unduly alarmed. This was the night of 21st January 2009 and inevitably there was fog and clouds in the sky. Obviously the birds got confused in the fog and decided to come down and have a closer look at this pool of light in the middle of the forest. I have read of birds getting disoriented in similar conditions and crashing into lighthouses on the shoreline, but I do not know of a similar case as this. Yes, the story ends well, and the Geese team soon flew away unharmed.

Just as we must fly away today from this cracker of a weekend outing, till we meet again with tales of other trips …

Thursday, September 9, 2010

In Search of the Lesser Florican



When Sat called late in August 2010 to invite me to Shahpura, to come and see the Lesser Floricans in that area, I had just cancelled a trip to Sonkhaliya the weekend before just for that purpose. The Monsoon this year had been strong with the rainfall measurements being reported in inches rather than in millimeters as in previous years. We had been hearing good reports from the Bhilwara area in Rajasthan (where both Shahpura and Sonkhaliya are located) that Florican display activity had been widespread. So, I promptly jumped at the opportunity, particularly since I had never seen this enigmatic bird of the Monsoon season.

Nahush and I set off on a Saturday afternoon, planning to reach Shahpura by evening to take in a late session of birdwatching. The next day we planned to explore the different areas there, try our luck also at Sonkhaliya, and return to Jaipur. As often happens, things did not quite turn out that way. As we drove past Nasirabad we discovered that some birding friends were already in Sonkhaliya and had seen no less than six Floricans displaying in the morning. Our pulses quickened as we decided to first recce these farmlands and scattered thorn forests and get our target bird firmly under the belt. Easier said than done. First, we failed to connect with our local Forest Department contact, Then, we discovered that our friends from Udaipur had already left the area. We did scour a cross-section of the habitat but without any luck.

Wisely we decided to press on to Shahpura, but torrential rain dogged us most of the way while negotiating a narrow pot-holed road in the dark. However, all of our disappointments of the day were quickly forgotten as Sat, and the rest of the Shahpura family made us welcome to their wonderful Boutique Heritage Hotel ( and Residence). Over some tall glasses of cold beer we made plans for the morrow. We resolved to start at first light. Sat had been observing and studying the Floricans for several years. We would also be joined by a local expert, Nur Mian, whose tracking skills and jungle craft were extolled to us by our hosts as the beer flowed. I knew we were in good hands. We retired to our luxurious rooms with a keen sense of anticipation. Even though thunder rumbled all night I knew rain would not keep us back in the morning.

Dawn was indeterminate as thick clouds obscured the eastern sky. A light drizzle had freshened the air. Mistakenly, I had assumed we would be hiking the periphery of the lakes that surround the property, but Sat was ready in his Jeep. We picked up Nur and headed out. Several miles away we finally left the main road and started following one of the village tracks. It was clear that Sat would have to rely on his off-road driving skills. For the record let me state that he did very well all along, even fording a long stretch of the backwaters of Nahar Sagar when the water alarmingly submerged the wheels of the Jeep. But it was on one of the earliest and most harmless looking sections on the village track that we came a cropper ! A quick sideways slide, the wheels spun, and as soon as the motor was gunned, mud shockingly splashed the rear-view mirror. And, onto Sat and the other person in the front seat – me! As it happened the mud was full of buffalo excreta and it was reeking. But we digress here, so lets get to the birdwatching…

As we drove towards the first stake-out point where Floricans had been observed all season, one of the first sounds from the edges of the agricultural fields was that of the Painted Francolin. We left the Jeep and set off on foot. There were also Charagahs (grazing grounds) here and scattered scrub. Suddenly, Sat called a halt with an excited whisper. They had heard the call of a Florican. We stopped to listen, hearts pounding…. Nothing.

As the light became stronger, there were many unfamiliar bird calls all around. Soon we were able to locate and observe the first of our ‘new’ birds, a Quail calling ‘quip ... quip’ from the lee of a bush. The territorial challenge was being answered by a rival on a raised sand mound a short distance away. The Rain Quail. Unmistakable with their black breasts and dark frontal streaking. In the vicinity, an Indian Bushlark was sailing into the air and then parachuting down with his wings held in a distinct V showing much more rufous than on the ground. He then perched on a bush and regaled us with his Lark’s song. It was exquisite. We looked at each other in astonishment as whistles, snatches of song, mimicry of the Prinia close by, and a fabulous assortment of sounds poured forth from this songster extraordinaire.

Meanwhile Nur was tracking far and wide, and in the absence of any alerts from him it was clear that the Floricans were lying in and would be difficult to locate. In any case we did not wish to disturb their breeding habitat. We were happy to sharpen our Quail identification skills instead. These shy Game Birds allowed us good long views if we remained in the Jeep. We were able to notch up the Common Quail. Larks were plentiful. Short-toed Larks were reluctant to being disturbed from their feeding on the bare ground. And Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Larks, yo-yoed in the air while giving vent to their flight call. A solitary Paddyfield Pipit caused momentary confusion but his longer tail was diagnostic from the Larks (though, to be perfectly honest I still can’t tell the difference from a Tawny Pipit in the field at different times of the year).

We decided to check on another area where the Floricans had been observed. As we drove past an open grassy area, another species of Quail attracted our attention. These were not the Barred Button-Quail (which are relatively common) but were identified as the Rock-Bush Quail. While our attention was centered here, Nur motioned us over a short distance away. He pointed to a dry tree over 200 yards away and said that was where the Painted Francolin was calling from and that he could see it on the central branch. Many of us birders pride ourselves on our spotting skills, but unless you picked it out with your Binoculars, it was just too small and indistinct to the naked eye. Phew ! ‘Eagle Eye Nur’ !

We drove on towards Nahar Sagar, one of the larger lakes in this area. In fact, the surrounding countryside is dotted with numerous lakes and jheels. A few are quite large and stretch for kilometers in length. There is extensive cultivation of the coarse grains and pulses in the monsoon. Life is unhurried and the rural countryside sylvan and contented. We drove past a village and round a sharp bend in the track came upon village maidens bathing at the well. There was no attempt by them to cover their modesty as we drove past.

We traversed the backwaters of Nahar Sagar observing European Rollers perched on wires. Surprisingly the main body of the lake is quite bereft of birds. Only a few Eurasian Spotbills and a pair of Painted Storks high overhead. We stopped for a while at a check-dam watching children splashing about in the water. All at once there was a loud and unfamiliar clamour behind us. A feral dog was being shooed away by a pair of large birds with their wings upraised threateningly. Fantastic, another new bird for me – the Great Thick-Knee. The dog was indeed driven off and soon one of the birds settled down on the rocky / sandy ground. The mate stood around attentively. Obviously the female was sitting on the eggs. But wait a minute, there were another couple of birds just a short distance away next to a bush in the undulating terrain by the waters edge. Incredibly these were Eurasian Thick-Knee. We enjoyed extended scope views and savoured this rare sight. A solitary wader piped into view, the Common Sandpiper.

As the morning grew hotter we drove on to Sur Sagar. Nur says this is excellent Sandgrouse country. Nahush spotted a Monitor Lizard several yards away – only the half-raised yet motionless head and neck visible. Amongst the usual assortment of scrub habitat birds we picked up some other good ones – the Oriental Skylark and the Rufous-tailed Lark. Also a few Yellow-wattled Lapwings. We approached the lake and climbed the gravelly embankment (the round pebbles on hard mud make for a great surface to skate down if you can keep your balance!) and surveyed the water. There was extensive reed growth and then grassland towards the shallow banks. A Stork in the distance on the ground was soon joined by another five spiraling down from the sky. Open-billed Storks. They had lost their breeding plumage and were returning to their usual grayish/black colours.

As I scanned the far bank where some cattle were enjoying the fresh grass I picked out some unfamiliar birds in the open. With mounting excitement I realised these were Indian Coursers. Another top bird and target for this trip for me. We grabbed the scopes and raced closer, our hurried approach partly masked by the cows. The Coursers were wary and kept moving further away. But when we stopped and started observing them they resumed their feeding in the grass. There were at least 10 individuals and it appeared some were juveniles. The Guidebooks do not do justice to their colours. The chestnuts, the blacks and whites contrast superbly. A wonderful sighting to end the morning’s birding.

Back in Shahpura Bagh we were treated to an excellent lunch by the family. We spent some time strolling through the extensive grounds and trying to identify the magnificent trees (some of the Mahuwa and Baheda were at least 80 years old). Butterflies were plentiful. Reluctantly we had to be on our way back to Jaipur…

Friday, June 25, 2010

Summer Birding in Ranthambhore National Park

This is a brief report on a 2 day trip to Ranthambhore National Park in the middle of May 2010.

We drive down from Jaipur to the Sawai Madhopur Lodge (SML or Taj Lodge) in the afternoon of 11th May, 2010. SML is the old Hunting Lodge of the Jaipur Royal Family. My wife, two teenaged boys and I are happy to accept the invitation of RKVS and KrDS and spend two nights in this wonderful property.

We are welcomed by several Golden Orioles that fly over the lawns to and from the many tall Neem, Ashok and Ardu trees. As soon as we are shown our rooms the luxurious accommodation lulls the senses but I am determined to explore the 12 acres of gardens, orchard, and walkways before the sun sets. I am accompanied by the Deputy GM in our little ramble. We soon come across most of the usual suspects, and it is clear that several birds are nesting here. A heartening sign.

While we are observing a flock of Oriental White-eyes in the Tamarind trees, we disturb a raptor perched behind us. The light is still good but the Falcon(?) flies low and fast directly away from us, and I am only able to make an ‘educated guess’ based on its size, wing shape and general colouring – probably a Laggar Falcon or Peregrine Falcon.


12th May morning drive in Ranthambhore Park Route 1 –
Our first Game Drive is in a Gypsy and we are allotted Route 1. Other than the four of us, our companions in the vehicle are a very young couple from SE Asia, and the mandatory Naturalist and Driver. Route 1 is reputedly one of the driest Routes in the Park and I have inwardly resigned myself to the thought that wildlife would be thin here at this time of the year in the hot weather. In any case the 5 different Routes are supposed to be allocated at random to the various Gypsies and Canters that ply in the Park. It appears Routes 2 and 3 that also skirt the large lakes have been throwing up most of the tiger sightings these days. Our Naturalist appears somewhat puzzled when I say that I am quite interested in birds and other attractions of the Forest, and that we are not just here for the Tigers.

We enter the Forest through a Gate just beside an ancient Banyan Tree. The spread of the aerial roots and the span of this specimen is enormous and I am reminded of the giant Banyan near Jogi Mahal in another area of the Park. It is just past sunrise and even though most well-wooded areas are still cool, the heat is rising. The terrain is indeed dry. The natural waterholes are dust bowls. All the Dhok trees are leafless. However, old natural watercourses are defined by green Tendu, and the occasional stately Mahuwa and Gurjan. Surprisingly White-bellied Drongos are more common than Black Drongos. We count up to 10 individuals on and around one tree. Oriental Magpie Robins are displaying. Meanwhile we start to come across small groups of Sambhar and Cheetal. Our young couple have been very quiet, only communicating with each other in barely audible whispers thus far. However, when we stop to observe a pair of Spotted Owlets in their nest in the hollow of a dry tree, the girl suddenly springs to life, clutching excitedly at her companion and cooing in delight. In response, since we are quite close to the Owlets, typically one of the birds starts to bob and weave its head, sending her into further paroxysms of delight.

I have several target species for this trip, and since we are in fairly good forest I ask whether we can hope to see the White-naped Woodpecker and the Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker. The Naturalist says yes, but that they are fairly rare. We see several Black-rumped Flamebacks and Yellow-crowned Woodpeckers, but not any of the others. One other target bird soon appears. As we climb a steep track with a rocky ravine to one side, there is a rustle in the undergrowth, and out steps a female Painted Spurfowl. She is soon followed by the striking male as they pick their way though the boulders and bushes.

When we stop for a while with the other vehicles at the terminal point by a small waterbody, I realize with a shock that this is the only water we have seen in the past hour in all of the forest. A solitary Wild Boar is in close proximity to a solitary Eurasian Thick-knee. There is the usual assortment of common birds near the water, but also a pair of Crested Buntings and a few Chestnut-shouldered Petronias. We wait for several minutes in the Gypsy close by since this is one of the beats of a resident Tigress and her two cubs. There are no alarm calls in the vicinity so we know it is an unlikely stakeout. But our patience is rewarded when two Paradise Flycatchers soon appear in the trees. A juvenile with long brown streamers and an adult with white streamers. Even though we see several more of the species later, it is this first sighting which is most enchanting. Both birds are calling and in song. The adult is then chased off by a Black Drongo, both birds involved in a high-speed aerial pursuit, dodging through the trees with their black and white tails fluttering gracefully. This is also a likely spot for the Indian Pitta, but they only migrate in here some weeks later.

As we wind our way back, the sun is higher and the first of the raptors have started riding the thermals. We observer a circling Red-headed Vulture and several Oriental Honey-Buzzards. A fruiting Banyan has attracted several Plum-headed and a few Alexandrine Parakeets. We stop in an open area beside a dry waterhole to look at some Yellow-wattled Lapwings. While I am scanning the scrub trying to find an Indian Courser, there is a commotion next to the vehicle and a Monitor Lizard wriggles off at speed in a cloud of dust.

When we are back on the main road (that leads to the Temple and Fort), we stop to scan the rocky cliffs. Though there are several nests on high ledges (easily located by the whitish streaks from droppings down the cliff face), only two are occupied by Long-billed Vultures.

Back at the Lodge, rejuvenated after an excellent breakfast, I make a leisurely survey of the extensive grounds. In the area behind the Swimming Pool with scattered bamboo clumps and several closely packed trees I spot a male Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher and marvel at its splendid blue and orange plumage.

12th May afternoon drive in Kundhal –
In the afternoon we are booked to visit the Kundhal area. This is in the non-core area of the Park and I am looking forward to my first trip here. Wisely the wife and boys opt out as the sun is fierce. Just as we are leaving in the Gypsy I am joined by one of the young Staff at the Lodge.

As it happens Kundhal is adjacent to the area we explored in the morning on Route 1. We connect with a few Chinkara in the dry scrub very close to the entrance. Soon we are into a flat grassland. There is a waterbody here which is replenished daily from a nearby borewell. Naturally in the middle of the afternoon this scarce source of water is a magnet for animals and birds. We approach ‘Kundhal Kui’ and park quietly a short distance away. We are under a mostly bare Flame of the Forest tree from which a couple of Yellow-footed Green Pigeons explode away. I look up at the scraggly leafed branches and fail to see any more of these birds until they actually take wing. We count 10 birds and they were amazingly camouflaged in this impossibly inadequate cover. There are the usual Vultures and Buzzards squatting where the Sambhar and Cheetal have churned up the margins of the pond into a muddy quagmire. Crested Buntings and Ashy-crowned Sparrow-larks hunt through the damp areas. I am able to observe a pair of Sirkeer Malkoha for several minutes. One individual lowers his head, extends the tail low to the ground and scampers forward with quick steps. He then raises his head straight up with bill vertical and makes a curious sound. Possible breeding behaviour I wonder ?

We move through the grassland and scrub. I keep a sharp lookout for Quails and Button-Quails. There are several species of both reported here. Ranthambhore is also one of the few places that one can see all three of our Francolins – Grey, Black and Painted. No luck with any of the rare species today, and even the Grey Francolin are thin on the ground. I think chances would be better after the Monsoon breaks.

As we move forward the first of a series of steeply canted rock strata force our Driver to engage 4WD. Now the leafy trees are restricted to the lower valleys, while the rocky hills are clothed sparsely with Thor and Salai. We come across fresh Tiger spoor, also of young ones. Possibly the resident family of Route 1 is passing through here. The sun reflecting off the rocks is blinding and the heat is dessicating.

On our way back we stop again at Kundhal Kui. Soon a solitary jackal that we had seen earlier several kms away approaches for a drink. It is quite wary. It takes an age to finally get to the water. Then it does not want to get its feet muddy. It circumvents the pond to find a dry approach to the water. Then the water is too muddy in that place so it goes around again. Finally, he has to get all muddy and wet and manages to take a sip. But something startles it and he bounds off. However his thirst is too overpowering and he starts the whole process again…

Back at the Lodge the family is relaxing in the Pool. Later I browse through the Library while the boys play snooker next door. There are several books on Birds, Natural History and Shikar – many of which are now out of print. I could spend hours here, but dinner is served and the hot nans are beckoning.

13th May morning drive in Balas –
The family is keen on Tiger spotting so they are booked on a Gypsy in the Park. On the recommendation of the Lodge Staff I am at the Park Office at 4:45 am to try and book Route 3. They are allotted Route 2.

My early morning drive separately is to Balas, again in the non-core area of the Park further South. My solitary companion in the Gypsy today is Mohan Singh. Over the course of the next few hours in our conversations we are able to solve all the problems of the Park and safeguard all the Tigers ! He begins by telling me the story of Laxmi, the female leopard of Balas.

Laxmi was abandoned by her mother because she had a limp as a cub. She was brought up by the Foresters and later released in the wild. However, it appears she is unable to hunt even though the leg is now fully healed. She keeps coming back to the Forest Hut and to another point in the Reserve mainly to be fed, and sometimes with wounds when she gets roughed up in the Forest. Would I like to see her ? Yes. We are in luck because she has just come in. Anytime you look at a young wild feline from close is fantastic. She lolls about in the damp earth unconcerned, her coat shining in the soft light of dawn, those unblinking leopard eyes watching you from a few feet away.

We drive around the foothills and scrub. There are several Nilgai here. Then the sudden deep alarm call of a Sambhar. All the animals are alert now. In the dusty track Mohan points out the drag mark of an animal – there is a single deep and narrow rut where the antler would have trailed. Close by we also pick up the spoor of a Tiger. But the Park Rules state that you cannot get off the vehicle, so we reluctantly move on, even though it appears that a Tiger had just made a kill close by or else had returned to feed.

One of the special features of Balas is the escarpment of the Aravallis that forms an almost unbroken line as you drive along the edge of the Park. We have to find a narrow track that allows us to climb a steep gradient and access the crest of the escarpment. This is several hundreds of feet above the plains and the views are sweeping towards the West and South. In the far distance flows the river Chambal, with the odd hill of the Vindhyan Range rising from the lowlands. We observe several Grey-breasted Prinias on the way up. A solitary Indian Bushlark walks about on the open sandy ground.

The terrain here is quite different from the two areas we visited yesterday. For one we are much higher. The plateau is broken up with very deep ravines. At the terminal point again the views are breathtaking. The track ends abruptly at the edge of a chasm. Tall cliffs tower across the yawning gap. In the deep gorge down below huge boulders mark the ancient course of the water run-off from the mountains. Here tall trees and hidden pools provide shade and water for animals to lie up. I observe several Red-rumped Swallows flitting overhead. Mohan identifies the fresh scat I point out to him as that of a Sloth Bear. There are several caves here I notice.

When I meet up with the family back at the Lodge they are happy to have seen a Tigress on Route 2. My younger son is the hero of the trip because he located the Tigress, and none of the other vehicles saw the animal. I ask him how it happened. In a matter-of-fact tone he says -
“Oh, the Gypsy had stopped because of all the alarm calls. Then I saw three Cheetal with their tails up all looking towards something. I followed their gaze and saw the Tiger.”
That’s when all hell broke loose in the Gypsy.
They also saw several waders and other birds at the Lake. Oh, and there were 8-10 Painted Spurfowl in many of the ravines, they were just so common! I am happy for them.

And so we must say Goodbye to Ranthambhore for the moment. True to form I miss a turn on the way back to Jaipur and we take a half-hour longer getting back.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Smriti Van Redux



Smriti Van, Jaipur.

Location of my 'serious birding', and setting for many memorable moments which are etched indelibly in my memory. Described by my father during a short visit many months ago as a 'birding paradise'.


" And there were gardens bright with sinuous rills,
Where blossomed many an incense-bearing tree;
And here were forests ancient as the hills,
Enfolding sunny spots of greenery. "


Okay, Smriti Van being equated with Kubla Khan's Xanadu may be stretching the poetic metaphor a little too far, but I'm sure you get my drift. A little over 15 months ago there were indeed 'sinuous rills' running with water; and today sweet-smelling shrubs and flowering trees still abound; extensive natural forests cover the valleys and hills; and busy sprinklers and irrigation pipes help keep the vegetation verdant.


Smriti Van is not old. It was opened to the public in the middle of 2008. I happened to be one of the early lucky few to visit, and since the Park's delights had not yet unfolded to the hordes, I often found myself wandering about alone for hours. 'Van' is an appropriate description for this place. Much effort has gone into amalgamating the natural forests, stony hills, and dry scrubby undulations with the 'introduced' shrubs, creepers, trees and plantations. There is also a fairly large waterbody with reedy banks providing sufficient cover to many waders and ducks. All of these natural features provide for a wide bio-diversity and different habitats for birds.


Smriti Van allowed me to spend many hours in the field getting myself up to speed as a birder. Not that I am any kind of expert today, but lessons learned here have helped make me a patient observer, and taught me the virtue of trying to learn something new (even about familiar birds) and keeping careful notes.


I have always had an interest in birds since I was kid. For instance, I was happy enough to ID a brilliantly-plumaged pheasant as a monal, on a school trek to Roop Kund (Uttaranchal), yet remained clueless about the 'partridge-sized, all-white birds' shooting downhill from a snow-covered slope, at a higher elevation on the same trip. Or, years later smugly pretending to know the 'fishing eagle' swooping down to grab a 'spurfowl' on the banks of the Cauvery river on a fishing expedition. Thinking back, for me the trigger to get the bird ID's correct was probably a few years ago on a family trip to Shoja (Himachal). I had gamely maintained a list of all the birds we saw on the trip. But there were so many that we couldn't ID, and some that we got egregiously wrong, the latter illustrated vividly by a common bird that I insisted on calling a 'blackbird' which was pointed out by a birder later on in the trip as a Blue Whistling Thrush !

Then H presented me one of the new bird guides. Having only referred to Salim Ali's books and the Collins Handguide over so many years, now the new names for familiar birds and all of this scientific jargon was a bit of a shock. Indeed the venerable doctor and savant of birding in India - Salim Ali, had once stayed with my parents in Bhutan, and even though I was unable to meet him being away at boarding school, I thought having his autographed books to refer to was the last word in birding.

And so we inch closer to the present, trying to get to grips with ID terms like 'supercilium'. Here is my first visit to Smriti Van dutifully noted in the birding diary for October 2008. Almost immediately I am among wonderful birds, some with whom I would be renewing acquaintance after many years, and others I would be observing for the first time. The next few weekends and early mornings (as the weather gets crisp and invigorating), I start to comb the hillsides, valleys and twisting tree-canopied walkways, with an absolute profusion of birdlife to identfy, study and enjoy.

Soon we are hoping to spot the rare White-bellied Minivet after already getting sated with common views of the colourful Small Minivets. Or hoping that one of the Black-rumped Flamebacks actually has a white 'v' on his back and so could be the White-naped Woodpecker. Or else, that one of the Great Tits hanging upside down to feed on a difficult to reach morsel, could be the White-naped Tit. Inevitably, I get started on my Jaipur Checklist. This soon starts to fill with the names of some impressive species. Since I am not a photographer, my observations are often questioned by fellow birders. And that is natural.

It is those special days when almost everywhere you look you see new and interesting birds that makes it all worthwhile. One such day last year threw up not one, but three new birds (for me) at Smriti Van. I was staking out the old 'Birding Point' - here a natural amphitheater is formed by steep slopes on three sides overlooking a natural hollow through which a narrow brook flows draining water from the lake. Overhead tall trees form an almost unbroken canopy. Bushes and reeds choke the ground. This was one of my favourite spots here. Just days earlier I had succeeded in being able to tell the difference between two of the common Pipits seen in the Park. The Tree Pipits found at this spot, often in pairs, darker streaked and walking along the grass and scrub covered slopes - as compared to the Tawny Pipit occasionally seen in the dry, open areas.

In fact, I was observing the Tree Pipits again when a 'hawk' glided in low overhead and perched on a branch overlooking the water. A solitary Common Sandpiper piped in alarm and dashed away. Almost at once, in overhead flight and at perch, I was quite sure this was not the common Shikra. In flight the underparts were strongly barred. As I struggled to train my binoculars on it the raptor dropped down to the shallow water. I was able to observe it for several moments. The Eurasian Sparrowhawk. Certainly a rare winter visitor for Jaipur. In my mind's eye I can still see the regal composure and stance of this little raptor.

As the raptor flew off normal activity resumed. A pair of Grey-headed canary flycatchers recommenced their twittering aerial flycatching routine. Prinias flicked their tails and flitted from one bush to another. Other common warblers went about their business. As I looked closely at a Whitethroat, I became aware of another warbler that looked quite different in this group. This individual had a markedly dark (almost black) head and was larger than the Whitethroat. Another new bird for me - the Orphean Warbler.

Just as I finished updating my notes for the hawk and the warbler a wonderful new bird flew across and perched on a tree on the slope. Thrush, I mouthed silently to myself. But which one ? The bird was calling softly, drawing attention to its yellow bill. It was almost uniformly grey all over, darker above and paler below with yellowish legs. The Tickell's Thrush. Oh the clean, sleek lines and delicate demeanour !

Later that day as I was recounting the experiences to a fellow birder, he enquired of my progress with the Jaipur Checklist. We glanced through the list and many names just jumped out at me. Sirkeer Malkoha. Common Iora. Bluethroat. Black-headed Cuckoo-Shrike. Black-winged Cuckoo-Shrike. Common Rosefinch. Barred Button-Quail. Grey-necked Bunting. Oriental Skylark. Now, as I write this blog in March 2010, I am reminded that for many of these birds I only have record of an occasional further sighting at other locations near Jaipur.

Common Rosefinches I have only seen on passage twice in two years - once in Spring and once in Autumn. On both occasions I can clearly recall that their bright pink plumage stood out in stark relief on perch against the ground and trees.

The Barred Button-Quail - both solitary individuals- were encountered on the stony hillside in Smriti Van. On one occasion I surprised one individual which suddenly found itself stranded in the open between the only available cover of rocks and bushes. I must admit its reflexes were quicker (damn the 'licker' !) and as I stood frozen, it was off in a flash.

The Bluethroat, in my opinion, is not a common visitor to Jaipur. I had seen a male at Smriti Van in the winter of 2008, close to the two water tanks in the open scrub and bushes near the expansive lawns. Having drawn a blank on this species lately - at several other likely sites, I was pleasantly surprised to see a pair this time at the exact same spot. The male (other than chasing the female at high speeds low over the ground dodging past bushes) , was an accomplished scurrier, scooting forward several paces on quick feet then cocking the tail and pecking at the ground.

The Common Iora again I have encountered only a few times in Jaipur. The first occasion was on a eucalyptus tree in Smriti Van and it was sporting a fairly drab non-breeding plumage. Only later when I observed several birds in Udaipur, did they have the more colourful yellow and black plumage, and were giving vent to their wide spectrum of calls and whistles.

I'll end this post by trying to describe a curious behaviour that I observed over several occasions at the main tank in the Park. At that time this tank held several inches of water. A Shikra was observed on three occasions waddling into the slightly deeper water. When the water level was up to its thighs it would stop and stand for minutes at a time. Occasionally ducking its head into the water, but being careful to not get its tail wet. There were some fish being reared in this tank, but I am quite sure it would not have caught one even if one swam through its legs. Could it just be cooling off ? (this was winter remember) or was it getting philosophical ??...

To misquote Ralph Waldo Emerson -

" All birds are poets at heart. They serve nature for bread, but her loveliness overcomes them sometimes."

But, why Smriti Van Redux ?

Because it was once a birding paradise. Then man arrived and the garden was spoilt. Now we are hoping that the good old birding times will return. Believe me, one good monsoon and we are back, as they say in Rajasthan!












Sunday, January 24, 2010

The Spotted Creeper

In this note I hope to acquaint you with one of our enigmatic birds - the Spotted Creeper- and in the telling also describe the layout of one of Jaipur's hidden gems where we have often gone birdwatching.

Grass Farm Nursery.

Yes, the appellation is not the most inspiring, and if I were to describe the location, many of you would scoff at the mere suggestion that any interesting birds could actually be seen here. But this very 'Nursery' is home to several special birds that you could ever hope to see in Jaipur. And it is right in the city.

For the moment let's just go straight to the heart of the story, and leave the directions how to get here to the end of this post.

The Spotted Creeper is one of those elusive birds that rates fairly high on the Birdwatcher's target list. Coupled with the fact that it is endemic to these regions and also that there is not another bird which is similar looking in Rajasthan (unlike the Tree Creeper found in other parts of India), it is also quite rare and difficult to find. For many months I had been keeping a sharp lookout for it in many locations in and around Jaipur but without success.

But let's just backtrack for a moment and lead you through the lie of the land.

Grass Farm Nursery as the name suggests is both a nursery and it was a grass farm. During Pre-Independence India, grass was grown here for the Cavalry horses, then it became a State Nursery, before finally being christened a 'Reserved Forest'.

As soon as you enter the Main Gate you are confronted by a magnificent Sausage Tree (Kigellia pinnata). For several months of the year, long single rope-like strands hanging down from the branches, bear at their ends, either the curious sausage-shaped fruit or a strangely-coloured and powerfully-scented flower that opens only at night. To your right are three towering pines ! These are Chir Pine (Pinus roxburghii). They have no business growing in this climate. One grizzled veteran who works in the Nursery recounted to me the story of how these trees came to be in these parts. Amongst the special care in rearing the saplings was the occasional use of large ice slabs to cool the scorching earth and provide succour to the fledgling roots in the hot summer months of the late 1950's.

It is difficult to draw your eyes away from the fantastic trees all around you. Even though it is a Nursery and not a natural forest, the phrase that springs to mind is that this is an 'ancient grove'. Several trees are decades old at least - Arjun, Kachnar, Aretha, Churail, Semul, Goolar, 5 different Acacias, the list is long.

And the birds love it here.

One star attraction is the Brown Hawk Owl ( Boobook). This individual perches on the same branch of a young Chandan (Sandalwood) tree. As you follow the 'Nature Trail' (marked by a board) you could also hope to spot the pair of resident Grey Nightjars. Again, through the daylight hours these nocturnal birds roost on the exact same spots on outspread branches of Khejri trees. We must have passed by them several times in the past without noticing them before we did, so beautifully are they camouflaged against the mottled grey bark.

Anyhow, let's get back to our first sighting of the Spotted Creeper.

On a Sunday afternoon in late November 2009 I happened to be strolling around here. I was quite pleased to have earlier just seen two of the less common Drongos - the Ashy and White-bellied. As I passed the eastern corner of the Nursery, I heard the pleasant call of a Marshall's Iora. Since I had only once before seen this bird here ( in June 2009) I was quite delighted to locate it quickly in the Khejri trees, the bright yellow and white plumage clearly visible in the upper canopy. It was calling repeatedly as it searched through the branches, sometimes hanging upside down.

But wait a minute, the Iora was not alone.

There was a full-fledged 'hunting-party' in attendance, some birds silent and others calling softly as they moved from one tree to another. I counted off Small Minivets, Great Tits, Common Woodshrikes, White-browed Fantails, Red-breasted Flycatchers amongst other common birds. And there was a stranger ( to me) in their midst.

A small dark bird with whitish spots suddenly flew across and alighted directly on the trunk of a Khejri tree. My first thought was that this was a Yellow-crowned Woodpecker. And then I saw through the binoculars the unmistakable thin long curved bill.

The Spotted Creeper, finally !

I was able to observe this individual for several minutes as it crept along the trunk and thicker branches, prying and poking away at deep fissures and knots in the bark and in the hollows. The bill obviously is a superbly adapted instrument for just this job, and a few grubs were extricated expertly.

But there was more excitement in store that afternoon. As I relayed the Spotted Creeper sighting to other Birders to entice them to join me, I was alerted again to the calls of the Oriental Honey-Buzzard that I had heard calling earlier a short distance away.

Within a few minutes I had located a pair of the Buzzards perched on an Ardu (Ailanthus excelsa). This was an opportunity to compare the male and the female, and as I scribbled notes, I was joined by N. We noticed that only the female was calling. Soon two other Buzzards tumbled down from the sky - perhaps offspring - they looked like juveniles.

We were careful in their vicinity because there are several bee-hives here and many of these had been cleaned out by the Buzzards lately. On one occasion the disgruntled bees from a destroyed hive attacking a Forest Guard and a Morning Walker - the latter being chased and stung several times, and this experience keeping the gentleman away for several weeks.

However, the female Buzzard was still calling, and seemed to be peering constantly at a dense Neem ( Azadirachta indica) tree next to the Ardu. This tree was literally mobbed by Rufous Tree-Pies, Shrikes, and Babblers. As we shifted position to get a closer look, an enormous brown-feathered owl flew off from the same Neem. It flew quite low to the ground, dodging between the trees to another perch a short sprint away. It was relatively easy to find its new location which was soon given away by the raucous Tree-Pie and the Buzzard family. The latter constantly chased and dive-bombed the intruder. Even though the owl spotted us from afar, we were able to get good views of the plumage, the 'horns' or ears that stuck straight up, and the fierce red / orange eyes. The Eurasian Eagle Owl.

It was instructive to observe the Owl's behaviour when being mobbed by other birds at a daytime perch. This individual was quite unconcerned by all the commotion and aerial sorties aimed at its head, confident in its power and size ignoring all this harassment. I thought of the (relatively diminutive) Collared Scops Owl that we had observed for several months at another location, which relied more on camouflage and concealment, and on being discovered by other birds in the day, assumed a Buddha-like stoicism and ignored all the verbal abuse being thrown at it. The (large) Barn Owl, on the other hand, employs a curious head and upper body side-to-side 'sway' when a Babbler gets too close in its face - an obvious 'stay-away' warning signal.

How to get there ...
Located on the main Hasanpura-Khatipura road in the Army Area. Well marked by a Board stating 'Grass Farm Nursery'.
Do check at the Office and take permision before going around. The Nursery Staff are helpful and quite used to Birders and Tree-Spotters.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

Winter Sundays at Chandloi



Local newspapers in Jaipur have been reporting for several years the increasing numbers of waterfowl and other birds observed at Chandloi lake. Finally, interested enough by photos of Greater Flamingos, I made my first visit in the middle of September 2009.

Owing to the paucity of rainfall around Jaipur this monsoon season, I was quite surprised by the spread of water in the lake. The lake is surrounded by much habitation and agricultural fields. In the middle small islands covered by kikar trees clearly are magnets for a large number of waders and ducks.

A motley group of people was already gathered on the embankment and seemed to have eyes only for the star attraction – the Flamingos. Indeed, 1000+ Greater Flamingos were bunched together in a tight flock, swimming in the deeper water and then wading up to the islands in the middle. A pair of Painted Storks had built a nest on top of a kikar tree, as had several Cormorants. I followed the progress of their nesting over the next few weeks. The Stork nests were soon abandoned, but the Cormorants were successful in breeding.

As with any North / Western Indian jheel in autumn (and later through winter), the air, water and land was literally teeming with life. Overhead, twittering Martins and Swallows swooped low over the water and wheeled higher in the sky. The margin of the lake had the usual assortment of waders – Sandpipers, Stints and Plovers, chasing each other off their separate pieces of turf. Rosy starlings flew past in large numbers, rising from adjacent agricultural fields, adults showing much pink, but the juveniles plain brown.

However, for me the highlight that first day was a migrating group of Grey Wagtails that literally swarmed the area in their hundreds. H later told me they were possibly on passage, since we did not see them in such numbers again.
Interestingly, during a subsequent visit on 10th January 10th 2010, S and I saw a much smaller flock of Yellow Wagtails exhibiting much the same behaviour. The Yellow Wagtails varied in the extent of yellow on the underbody – some juveniles (?) with much duller plumage.

Another curious observation is that in September we saw a small flight each of the Black Ibis and the Black-headed Ibis, but not another Ibis over 10 subsequent visits through January.

In sifting though my notes I also notice that the composition of ducks commonly seen kept changing over the months. In September our resident ducks like the Spot-billed Duck, Lesser Whistling Duck, Comb Duck and Cotton-pygmy Goose were joined here by the first of the winter visitors - the Shovellers. Over the next few weeks it was almost as if the residents kept getting pushed out by migrants. In October we observed good numbers of Gadwalls and Pochards – both Common and Tufted. We have record of Common Teals and Ruddy Shelduck in November. Bar-headed Geese (200+) arrived in December, and apparently have good feed on the islands which were now exposed as the water receded. The handsome Northern Pintails (100+) also appeared in December. And then just after Christmas a pair of Greylag Geese, unmistakable with their large size and pink bills and legs, and quite careful not to be seen consorting with their bar-headed cousins.

Another pattern developed over subsequent visits to Chandloi – from visits spanning a few hours, I often started spending the whole day Sunday around the lake. Sometimes alone, and on some occasions accompanied by relatives, friends and expert Birders (each group not mutually exclusive). Every visit was a learning experience. One always observed something new. Conditions kept changing. As we ranged farther afield around the lake, we discovered our little ‘hot spots’.

One in particular keeps throwing up new surprises.

The Eastern embankment draws a finger of the lake deeper towards the Railway tracks. This narrow water body is a good area to observe birds at close range both in the water and in the ‘thorny vegetation’ covered banks. The ‘thorny vegetation’ is actually an infestation of Angrezi Babool (Prosopis juliflora). If only we could somehow replace this with ‘proper’ trees and shrubs, the bird count would explode. Thankfully, the embankment is also studded with several kair and ber bushes. Agricultural fields also provide feed and cover to several birds.

Often we have strolled along the embankment, the lake on the left and the agricultural fields to the right. Once an unfamiliar and vocal flock of birds with bright yellow underparts, was identified with some difficulty as Black-headed Buntings. The same day we saw another new bird for me – the Black-headed Munia. This was the Atricapilla sub-species with all-chestnut belly and flanks. A pair of Scaly-breasted Munias provided entertainment chasing each other between the kair bushes. Brown shrikes also have their favourite perches here – and we have seen both sub-species - Cristatus with brown crown and Lucionensis with grey crown.

This area also seems to be a favourite haunt of several raptors. On one occasion we observed 6 Eurasian Marsh Harriers in flight. The same day a pair of Booted Eagles quartered the sky just above. On 20th October 2009 I recorded a pair of Ospreys. Later through December one Osprey stayed back. At first, this bird looked rather bedraggled, and perched forlornly for hours on a stone post in the middle of the lake, and we thought it may not survive for lack of prey. But just days later we saw it again, feeding on a fish, and then taking to the air with renewed vigour.

Closer to the Railway track and in the dry, scrubland and fallow fields in winter, apart from the common birds there are also the Tawny Pipit, Greater short-toed Lark, Red-collared Doves, Pied Bushchats, Siberian/ Common Stonechats, the occasional Desert Wheatear, and a party of Common Quail.

One bird which I have seen on every occasion through this winter has been a very large Gull. Amongst the usual assortment of Terns and smaller Gulls, this individual was distinctive for its size. Finally, we were able to ID this as the Pallas’ Gull – a non-breeding adult. It often feeds on dead fish washed up on the islands, even chasing away the larger Grey Herons that flap too close to its meal.

This post would be incomplete without a mention of another special bird that only arrived a few weeks ago at the lake.

DB and I had observed two separate flocks of very large birds flying North as we approached Chandloi from Jhalana Reserved Forest on 27th December 2009. We enjoyed excellent views as the Great White Pelicans wheeled in tight circles low over us. However, the Pelicans did not come down to the lake that day. Then on 10th January 2010 accompanied by S, we had seen a solitary Pelican sitting on a small island newly emerged in the lake. Earlier that day I had added the White-tailed Lapwing to my personal checklist. As the day drew to a close S pointed out a flight of Pelicans approaching the lake. Quickly we scrambled closer hoping to see them touch down. The Pelicans banked and dropped lower. While one bird nonchalantly scratched its belly with a webbed foot, another kept twisting its neck as if to see if the flight formation was being maintained. Soon they settled down gracefully on the surface of the water close to their mate on the island.

Getting to Chandloi lake from Jaipur –On the Jaipur – Kota highway, and past the Jaipur (Sanganer) Airport. Another 15 kms away you arrive at the village of Shivdaspura. From here you turn right towards the village of Chandloi, 2 kms away. My usual routine on morning visits is to park at the Petrol Station short of Chandloi village. Just across the road from here is an earthen embankment encircling the lake. Having the sun behind you is useful as you gaze across the water.



Happy Birdwatching !

Thursday, January 7, 2010

Day of the Cuckoos



Here is a recap of an afternoon trip made on 25th July 2009 when we came across 4 species of Cuckoos near Jaipur. While some of you may well spot several more Cuckoos in a day's birding if you explore more suitable terrain in different parts of India, but for us semi-desert dwellers of Jaipur , a day like this is special because some of these Cuckoos are rare summer / monsoon visitors.

S had piqued my interest about a new location where he said we had every chance to come across two species of birds high on my 'to do' list at that time - the White-naped Woodpecker and the White-naped tit (....as it would happen we saw neither that day).

So on Saturday afternoon N and I took the Jaipur-Chomu highway. We branched off at Chomu towards Samode and soon found our 'hot-spot'. This is where the road first cuts across a section of the Aravallis. On either side the hills tower overhead. A narrow glade runs along the base of the hills. Abutting the slope is a shallow ravine which drains the rainwater from the hills. It is a scenic and desolate spot, which we were later to discover was the reason it is not the safest (but that's another story).

A Common Hawk-Cuckoo ( Hierococcyx fugax) was calling close by, the tone rising in pitch steadily. We quickly had our gear organised and set off on foot. I have often found it difficult to actually sight this bird even standing right under the tree where the calls emanate from. This occasion was no different. Within a few minutes the bird flew off to another copse across the road.

The monsoon had broken a few days ago and there was fresh grass carpeting the glade. This had attracted several butterflies - some tiny ones like Blues, and others like Plain Tigers, Danaid Eggflies and Common Emigrants. A brilliantly coloured Blue Pansy favoured the damp ditch.

Soon our attention was attracted by an unfamiliar call from the hillside. We moved closer carefully, but the calls ceased immediately. We scanned the boulder-strewn hill which rose steeply, dotted with some acacias and several bushes. A faint movement behind a kair bush (Capparis decidua) enabled us to train our binoculars on a skulking bird. It was grey (darker grey upperparts), with a fleck of white on the wing , and white tips to tail feathers. The relatively smaller size and a quick reference to the guidebook confirmed the male of the Grey-bellied Cuckoo ( Cacomantis passerinus). The bird was quite wary and kept moving to deeper cover all the time.
Meanwhile, the glade was full of bird activity triggered perhaps by the profusion of insects and plants given life by the recent rains.
Prinias were plentiful. The grey-breasted prinias were now displaying their breeding colours which indicate their name. Plum-headed parakeets streaked overhead calling excitedly. Indian Silverbills swarmed the ground and low perches. There was a mixed group of Great Tits, Common Woodshrikes and Small Minivets. Other birds which I have found difficult to see in the non-winter months in Jaipur like the Pied Bushchat and Oriental White-eyes flitted about. Refreshingly, we saw White-eared Bulbuls rather than their ubiquitous (urban) red-vented cousins.
We had recently observed one of my favourite summer visitors - the Indian Pitta, but it was not here today. Golden Orioles stood out as bright patches of colour in the brown ( now burgeoning green) foliage.
We decided to follow a narrow goat-track winding upwards. I had passed by a small dark bird without so much as a second glance thinking the song was that of a Indian Robin, when N called me back with much gesticulation, and we actually had a beautiful male Crested Bunting in full song. Females dotted the steep grass-covered hill close by.
We could hear a noisy rabble of birds ahead as the track turned. Soon we were looking down at a breeding colony of Baya Weavers. The males were now sporting bright yellow caps and chests. The excitement was palpable and several males had already part- constructed their nests, suspended from the ends of branches of kikar trees.
As we climbed higher, we heard the familiar calls of the Pied Cuckoo (Clamator jacobinus)overhead. A pair flew across the crest of the hill allowing us good views.
This year we had been observing the Pied Cuckoo since the middle of June at several locations, but every new sighting was a delight.
Soon we were clambering up a saddle-back. The hill rose higher to our left with the path zig-zagging up to a temple. To the right the land fell away in a series of ravines - not unlike the badlands of the Chambal.
It was here that we saw our fourth Cuckoo of the day. Or rather a pair of them. These Cuckoos were much larger than the Grey-bellied. Even though we could not get very close, the defintive ID was made by the call. The Eurasian Cuckoo ( Cuculus canorus). Again, we had observed this bird at another location a few weeks before, and had heard them calling at other places. But never 4 different Cuckoos at the same location. Does the Asian Koel qualify as a Cuckoo, I wonder. Because that was around too, as everywhere else.
By now the day was getting on and we decided to turn back.
As soon as we descended to the grassy glade I almost stepped on and flushed a covey of Quails who exploded away with a whirrrr of rapid wingbeats. Startled, I was concentrating on putting down my next footstep when N called and pointed to a brightly colored bird perched on a Ber bush ( Ziziphus mauritiana). It had bright rufous upperparts, and was quite enjoying its meal of a hairy caterpillar. On the same bush was also a tiny Ashy Prinia. For a moment we were puzzled, then the call gave it away. It was a hepatic female of the Grey-bellied Cuckoo. The male called in reply from the general direction we had seen it earlier today.
Perhaps some reader could let me know if the Grey-bellied Cuckoo breeds around Jaipur at this time of the year. The Ashy Prinia sure looked like a prime candidate for a foster parent.

Well that's it for this post... in the next few I hope to give you a flavour of some of the other Jaipur birding locations (like Chandloi lake, Jhalana Reserved Forest, Nahargarh Reserve Forest and Jal Mahal and others) and some of the other 'special' birds that we have been seeing there.